Slittling saws - what am I missing here ?

Slittling saws - what am I missing here ?

Post by William G. Grave » Fri, 11 Sep 1998 04:00:00



OK, I just ate my second slitting saw arbor in 2 months!

My slitting saw has a keyway - neither my straight arbor nor the new R8
arbor has a key.  Looking in the catalog I dont see any with keyways.  The
two that I have are spring loaded holders that accept several different
diameter saws.  That's good except for what happens:

Put the saw in, put on the end cap and tighten with an allen head screw.  Do
the slitting job, which causes the blade to put force on the end cap, which
tightens the allen head screw.  At the end of the job, I break the allen
head wrench trying to get the***loose.  This has happened twice now.

Am I missing something here or does everyone have this problem?

thanks
bill
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Bill Graves

 
 
 

Slittling saws - what am I missing here ?

Post by Ron Ginge » Fri, 11 Sep 1998 04:00:00


Quote:

> Put the saw in, put on the end cap and tighten with an allen head screw.  Do
> the slitting job, which causes the blade to put force on the end cap, which
> tightens the allen head screw.  At the end of the job, I break the allen
> head wrench trying to get the***loose.  This has happened twice now.

> Am I missing something here or does everyone have this problem?

I milled a couple flats on the washer like cap that the allen***goes
through. Then I can put the shank in a vise (it also has a flat) and
take the washer off with a wrench.

I did chew up a couple screws before I did this.

ron


 
 
 

Slittling saws - what am I missing here ?

Post by Michael Horgan [Lughai » Fri, 11 Sep 1998 04:00:00


Quote:
>OK, I just ate my second slitting saw arbor in 2 months!

>My slitting saw has a keyway - neither my straight arbor nor the new R8
>arbor has a key.  Looking in the catalog I dont see any with keyways.  The
>two that I have are spring loaded holders that accept several different
>diameter saws.  That's good except for what happens:

>Put the saw in, put on the end cap and tighten with an allen head screw.  Do
>the slitting job, which causes the blade to put force on the end cap, which
>tightens the allen head screw.  At the end of the job, I break the allen
>head wrench trying to get the***loose.  This has happened twice now.

>Am I missing something here or does everyone have this problem?

>thanks
>bill
>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
>Bill Graves


The horizontal mill I use for slitting (after breaking several of
those arbors,) has a key down the length of it's arbor.  Works much
better. :)  Might try making a holder, slot it for a key, and use
spacers and a big nut to hold it in place.


http://www.FoundCollection.com/
Posting from A Brazen Forgery

 
 
 

Slittling saws - what am I missing here ?

Post by Jack Erbe » Fri, 11 Sep 1998 04:00:00


<snip>

Quote:
> Put the saw in, put on the end cap and tighten with an allen head screw.  Do
> the slitting job, which causes the blade to put force on the end cap, which
> tightens the allen head screw.  At the end of the job, I break the allen
> head wrench trying to get the***loose.  This has happened twice now.

> Am I missing something here or does everyone have this problem?

I had that happen once, wrapping the***with teflon tape (admittedly
a jerry rig solution) seemed to help as far as loosening the screw.

--

 
 
 

Slittling saws - what am I missing here ?

Post by Fitch R. Willia » Sat, 12 Sep 1998 04:00:00



Quote:
>Am I missing something here or does everyone have this problem?

Same problem.  Made my own arbor after i couldn't get the saw off the
first one.

Fitch
In So. Cal.

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Slittling saws - what am I missing here ?

Post by Don Forema » Sat, 12 Sep 1998 04:00:00


I rub a little moly disulfide powder on the side of the arbor that comes
off.  That limits the slitting saw's ability to tighten the***-- it
can't "get a grip".



Quote:
> OK, I just ate my second slitting saw arbor in 2 months!

 
 
 

Slittling saws - what am I missing here ?

Post by Jon Elso » Sat, 12 Sep 1998 04:00:00


Quote:


> >Am I missing something here or does everyone have this problem?

> Same problem.  Made my own arbor after i couldn't get the saw off the
> first one.

Never quite had this happen, but I was really apalled at the poor
quality of the multi-size saw arbor I got (from Enco or such).
The saw wobbled about 0.025" at the teeth of a 2" saw!
I put a carbide lathe tool in the vise and cut the face of the
arbor so it ran true.  But, that kind of poor workmanship
kind of showed me what level of quality it was to.  I made the
side slots on the clamping disc, and it makes it much easier
to loosen.

The other problem with these things is that the buildup of
clearance between all those rings makes it impossible to
accurately center the saw.  You can't get much less than
0.010 - 0.020" eccentricity, so the saw is cutting with only
a couple of teeth.  And, if you go for very deep slotting
passes, then you'll get a bindup for sure.

Jon

 
 
 

Slittling saws - what am I missing here ?

Post by Peter Dru » Sat, 12 Sep 1998 04:00:00




:->
:->Put the saw in, put on the end cap and tighten with an allen head screw.  Do
:->the slitting job, which causes the blade to put force on the end cap, which
:->tightens the allen head screw.  At the end of the job, I break the allen
:->head wrench trying to get the***loose.  This has happened twice now.
:->
:->Am I missing something here or does everyone have this problem?
:->

For really tight allen head screws, I get the wrench set in the socket
real good, then whack the long end of the wrench with a *** or
dead-blow hammer. This method hasn't failed me yet :)


Driving OS/2 Warp 4 and BEos R3
Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
Meddle not in the affairs of Dragons, For thou art crunchy, and good
with ketchup!

 
 
 

Slittling saws - what am I missing here ?

Post by James Wilkin » Sat, 12 Sep 1998 04:00:00


Quote:

> My slitting saw has a keyway - neither my straight arbor nor the new R8
> arbor has a key.  Looking in the catalog I dont see any with keyways.  ...

I think the keyways are for horizontal mill arbors. It's common practice
to string a line of different sized cutters on an arbor and at least
some of them may take enough of a cut to need the key. Then all the
cutters have to let the key pass through.

Quote:
> ...the blade ...
> tightens the allen head screw.  At the end of the job, I break the allen
> head wrench trying to get the***loose.  ...
> Am I missing something here or does everyone have this problem?
> bill

The first time this happened to me I got the cap to turn along with the
***with Vise-Grips. You can make a less destructive wrench for the
unmodified cap by boring a close fitting hole in a strip of 1/4" plate,
slotting in from the edge, and clamping it onto the cap with the
Vise-Grips, a drill press vise, or anything that lets the Allen wrench
in and keeps your hand away from the saw teeth.

jw

 
 
 

Slittling saws - what am I missing here ?

Post by Doug Whi » Sat, 12 Sep 1998 04:00:00


Keywords:

Quote:



>> >Am I missing something here or does everyone have this problem?

>> Same problem.  Made my own arbor after i couldn't get the saw off the
>> first one.

>Never quite had this happen, but I was really apalled at the poor
>quality of the multi-size saw arbor I got (from Enco or such).
>The saw wobbled about 0.025" at the teeth of a 2" saw!
>I put a carbide lathe tool in the vise and cut the face of the
>arbor so it ran true.  But, that kind of poor workmanship
>kind of showed me what level of quality it was to.  I made the
>side slots on the clamping disc, and it makes it much easier
>to loosen.

>The other problem with these things is that the buildup of
>clearance between all those rings makes it impossible to
>accurately center the saw.  You can't get much less than
>0.010 - 0.020" eccentricity, so the saw is cutting with only
>a couple of teeth.  And, if you go for very deep slotting
>passes, then you'll get a bindup for sure.

When I was first looking for an arbor to use in my mill, I was strongly
urged by several people to avoid the one-size-fits-all arbors for all of
the above reasons.  I saved up my money & got an arbor that has a keyway.
 It only fits one size hole (5/8", I think) and it wasn't cheap (~$50?)
but it works great, I have no trouble changing blades and the saws run
true.  I think mine is made by Weldon, and it has a 1/2" shank.  It took
a while to find one with that small a shank, but they are out there.

Doug White

 
 
 

Slittling saws - what am I missing here ?

Post by Kurt Bjor » Sat, 12 Sep 1998 04:00:00


Those "universal" slitting saw arbors are not the best quality... MSC sells
a nice quality arbor which will accept just one diameter slitting saw hole,
but it is well made, accurate, and will not fail on you.  They run approx
$40, but the cost is worth it.

Let me know if you need a stock number, or you can go to the MSC WWW sight
http://www.FoundCollection.com/

--
Kurt Bjorn

Quote:

>OK, I just ate my second slitting saw arbor in 2 months!

>My slitting saw has a keyway - neither my straight arbor nor the new R8
>arbor has a key.  Looking in the catalog I dont see any with keyways.  The
>two that I have are spring loaded holders that accept several different
>diameter saws.  That's good except for what happens:

>Put the saw in, put on the end cap and tighten with an allen head screw.
Do
>the slitting job, which causes the blade to put force on the end cap, which
>tightens the allen head screw.  At the end of the job, I break the allen
>head wrench trying to get the***loose.  This has happened twice now.

>Am I missing something here or does everyone have this problem?

>thanks
>bill
>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
>Bill Graves


 
 
 

Slittling saws - what am I missing here ?

Post by Lee Marshal » Sat, 12 Sep 1998 04:00:00


Quote:

> >> >Am I missing something here or does everyone have this problem?
> When I was first looking for an arbor to use in my mill, I was strongly
> urged by several people to avoid the one-size-fits-all arbors for all of
> the above reasons.  I saved up my money & got an arbor that has a keyway.

I have an R8 shank with a 1" arbor with keyway, and I have never had the
problems that you folks are ***in' about. It takes up to a 3/8" wide
cutter, and the retaining area protrudes only 1/8" below the bottom
surface of the cutter. It is made by Weldon and works great. Another
ecample of made in the good ol' USA!

Lee

 
 
 

Slittling saws - what am I missing here ?

Post by DoN. Nicho » Sat, 12 Sep 1998 04:00:00




Quote:
>OK, I just ate my second slitting saw arbor in 2 months!

>My slitting saw has a keyway - neither my straight arbor nor the new R8
>arbor has a key.  Looking in the catalog I dont see any with keyways.  The
>two that I have are spring loaded holders that accept several different
>diameter saws.  That's good except for what happens:

>Put the saw in, put on the end cap and tighten with an allen head screw.  Do
>the slitting job, which causes the blade to put force on the end cap, which
>tightens the allen head screw.  At the end of the job, I break the allen
>head wrench trying to get the***loose.  This has happened twice now.

>Am I missing something here or does everyone have this problem?

        Well ... when I first needed one in a hurry, I made it out of
aluminum, with a step turned on it to hold the saw centered.  To secure it,
instead of a single central***on a disk, I drilled and tapped three
holes at roughly 120 degree angles, and use washers to spread the force onto
the cutter.  I set one of them a little farther from the center than the
rest, so it is half-way into the key slot in the saw.  I've only used it for
rather thin saws (1/16" max thickness), and not on particularly difficult
work (the aluminum might bend before the screws snapped. :-)

        However, I just got a right-angle head, with a R8 spindle. (The mill
has a #30 taper quick-change, and I've got to make a new input spindle for
the head.)  I ordered from Grand Tools a "stub arbor" with R8 spindle and
two diameters of arbor with key and spacer rings.  This will work well for
anything for which I am willing to use the right-angle head.

        I'm considering getting a similar arbor for the #30 taper to handle
the situation when I'm slitting the side instead of the top of a workpiece.
At that point, the aluminum arbor goes to whoever comes by and asks for
it. :-)

        Enjoy,
                DoN.

--
 NOTE:     spamblocking on against servers which harbor spammers.

 My Concertina web page:         | http://www.FoundCollection.com/
        --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

 
 
 

Slittling saws - what am I missing here ?

Post by JRining » Sun, 13 Sep 1998 04:00:00



Quote:

>Put the saw in, put on the end cap and tighten with an allen head screw.  Do
>the slitting job, which causes the blade to put force on the end cap, which
>tightens the allen head screw.  At the end of the job, I break the allen
>head wrench trying to get the***loose.  This has happened twice now.

>Am I missing something here or does everyone have this problem?

Same problem here.  I clamp the end cap in my soft-jawed vise to get it loose.
That allen head***is very inadequate for the job...

- Jeff Rininger

 
 
 

Slittling saws - what am I missing here ?

Post by JRining » Sun, 13 Sep 1998 04:00:00



Quote:

>Put the saw in, put on the end cap and tighten with an allen head screw.  Do
>the slitting job, which causes the blade to put force on the end cap, which
>tightens the allen head screw.  At the end of the job, I break the allen
>head wrench trying to get the***loose.  This has happened twice now.

>Am I missing something here or does everyone have this problem?

Same problem here.  I clamp the end cap in my soft-jawed vise to get it loose.
That allen head***is very inadequate for the job...

- Jeff Rininger