>OK, I just ate my second slitting saw arbor in 2 months!
>My slitting saw has a keyway - neither my straight arbor nor the new R8
>arbor has a key. Looking in the catalog I dont see any with keyways. The
>two that I have are spring loaded holders that accept several different
>diameter saws. That's good except for what happens:
>Put the saw in, put on the end cap and tighten with an allen head screw. Do
>the slitting job, which causes the blade to put force on the end cap, which
>tightens the allen head screw. At the end of the job, I break the allen
>head wrench trying to get the***loose. This has happened twice now.
>Am I missing something here or does everyone have this problem?
Well ... when I first needed one in a hurry, I made it out of
aluminum, with a step turned on it to hold the saw centered. To secure it,
instead of a single central***on a disk, I drilled and tapped three
holes at roughly 120 degree angles, and use washers to spread the force onto
the cutter. I set one of them a little farther from the center than the
rest, so it is half-way into the key slot in the saw. I've only used it for
rather thin saws (1/16" max thickness), and not on particularly difficult
work (the aluminum might bend before the screws snapped. :-)
However, I just got a right-angle head, with a R8 spindle. (The mill
has a #30 taper quick-change, and I've got to make a new input spindle for
the head.) I ordered from Grand Tools a "stub arbor" with R8 spindle and
two diameters of arbor with key and spacer rings. This will work well for
anything for which I am willing to use the right-angle head.
I'm considering getting a similar arbor for the #30 taper to handle
the situation when I'm slitting the side instead of the top of a workpiece.
At that point, the aluminum arbor goes to whoever comes by and asks for
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