Anyone take a Royal collet closer apart?

Anyone take a Royal collet closer apart?

Post by Jon Anderso » Sun, 29 Apr 2001 13:17:20



I bought a Royal collet closer on eBay for my Clausing. It wasn't the
right length, but I was sure I could modify it. Turns out to be 1-1/8
too short. Oddly, the knurled ring that keeps the bearing from coming
off the tube has an extension that comes back along the tube 1-1/8.
Machine this off, and move the flange that carries the fingers back
1.125 and it ought to work just fine. Trouble is I can't figure out how
to get that flange free from the tube. Just got done peering down the
threaded holes that secure the tubular collar with two flat head screws,
there sure doesn't appear to be a set***down there. (used a
microscope and an optical fiber) Of course I've removed the snap ring.
Is this thing just a nice tight slip fit and probably lightly rusted in
place, or is there something I've overlooked?

Thanks,

Jon

 
 
 

Anyone take a Royal collet closer apart?

Post by gstuf » Mon, 30 Apr 2001 01:57:36


I had small pins in mine had to knock them out

 
 
 

Anyone take a Royal collet closer apart?

Post by Jon Anderso » Mon, 30 Apr 2001 00:23:33


Quote:

> I had small pins in mine had to knock them out

Where are they? This isn't the cleanest thing in the world, having a
mixed patina of light rust/crud. I suspected the two holes I peered into
with the scope, but even with an optical fiber/light pipe I couldn't get
enough light down in there to really see anything. Didn't look like
there was a pin there and looking inside the drawbar tube, I couldn't
see any evidence for pin holes.

Jon

 
 
 

Anyone take a Royal collet closer apart?

Post by Robert Swinne » Mon, 30 Apr 2001 00:54:37


If it can't be taken apart without a great deal of trouble and risk,
consider cutting it in two somewhere near the middle and inserting a sleeve
to the correct length.

Bob Swinney

Quote:
> I bought a Royal collet closer on eBay for my Clausing. It wasn't the
> right length, but I was sure I could modify it. Turns out to be 1-1/8
> too short. Oddly, the knurled ring that keeps the bearing from coming
> off the tube has an extension that comes back along the tube 1-1/8.
> Machine this off, and move the flange that carries the fingers back
> 1.125 and it ought to work just fine. Trouble is I can't figure out how
> to get that flange free from the tube. Just got done peering down the
> threaded holes that secure the tubular collar with two flat head screws,
> there sure doesn't appear to be a set***down there. (used a
> microscope and an optical fiber) Of course I've removed the snap ring.
> Is this thing just a nice tight slip fit and probably lightly rusted in
> place, or is there something I've overlooked?

> Thanks,

> Jon

 
 
 

Anyone take a Royal collet closer apart?

Post by Jon Anderso » Mon, 30 Apr 2001 04:38:38


Robert,

Actually splicing it was my original thought, but taking it apart I
noticed the knurled ring at the end of the tube had a long sleeve on it.
I've never seen a Royal closer with this sleeve, and lo, it was the
1-1/8 I needed. If I can get the collar loose, I'll just machine a new
groove 1.125 back and redrill any pin holes. If it proves too much of a
pain to take apart any further, I'll just go back to splicing in a
section.

Jon

 
 
 

Anyone take a Royal collet closer apart?

Post by DoN. Nicho » Mon, 30 Apr 2001 05:52:39




Quote:
>Robert,

>Actually splicing it was my original thought, but taking it apart I
>noticed the knurled ring at the end of the tube had a long sleeve on it.
>I've never seen a Royal closer with this sleeve, and lo, it was the
>1-1/8 I needed. If I can get the collar loose, I'll just machine a new
>groove 1.125 back and redrill any pin holes. If it proves too much of a
>pain to take apart any further, I'll just go back to splicing in a
>section.

        When I replaced the 2-1/4x8 spindle on my Clausing with a L-00,
I had to add about an inch to the length of the drawtube.  I simply
turned up an extension which screwed into the existing drawbar threads,
and was internally threaded it to accept the collets.  A bit of Loctite on
the threads for the extension, and there I was.  Be sure to thread it a
little deeper than the tightest fit collet you have.  (I wound up with a
5C mounted 3-jaw which was just a little too tight, and unscrewed at the
wrong point the first time, Loctite or no. :-)

        The knurled ring on mine is at just about the right place to
give me plenty of grip to spin it in or out at need.

        Mine appears to be an original Clausing, not a Royal, FWIW.

        Good Luck,
                DoN.
--

        (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
           --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

 
 
 

Anyone take a Royal collet closer apart?

Post by Jon Anderso » Mon, 30 Apr 2001 09:11:12


Quote:

> I had to add about an inch to the length of the drawtube.  I simply
> turned up an extension which screwed into the existing drawbar
> threads, and was internally threaded it to accept the collets.

Don,  Nice, clean, simple, elegant solution! Thanks much. That should be
much easier than either of my other "plans"... In fact I have a s***
length of drawbar I can can use so I'll only have to do the external
thread!

BTW, my bearing is in poor shape. Noticed a standard bearing number, but
it's sure not a standard OD. Noticed lots of dings on the OD, rubbed
with a file, it's soft steel, just a ring around a standard bearing,
crimped over to hold it in place. Hmm, I can fix that...<G>

Jon

 
 
 

Anyone take a Royal collet closer apart?

Post by DoN. Nicho » Mon, 30 Apr 2001 10:27:19




Quote:

>> I had to add about an inch to the length of the drawtube.  I simply
>> turned up an extension which screwed into the existing drawbar
>> threads, and was internally threaded it to accept the collets.

>Don,  Nice, clean, simple, elegant solution! Thanks much. That should be
>much easier than either of my other "plans"... In fact I have a s***
>length of drawbar I can can use so I'll only have to do the external
>thread!

        Great!  It wouldn't work, of course, if you needed less than an
inch extension, because the internal threading would overlap with the
external, but at your required length, it should be fine.  (Double-check
how far back the existing internal threads are in the donor, just in
case they might be overly-long.

Quote:
>BTW, my bearing is in poor shape. Noticed a standard bearing number, but
>it's sure not a standard OD. Noticed lots of dings on the OD, rubbed
>with a file, it's soft steel, just a ring around a standard bearing,
>crimped over to hold it in place. Hmm, I can fix that...<G>

        Interesting.  I haven't needed to take mine apart yet, so I
don't know the precise bearing choice in use.

        Best of luck,
                DoN.

--

        (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.FoundCollection.com/
           --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

 
 
 

Anyone take a Royal collet closer apart?

Post by Mike Henr » Tue, 01 May 2001 22:12:25


Hi Jon,

You've probably already figured everything out, but I could send you a
2-page PDF of the manual for a Royal collet closer that was sold by Atlas
for their 12" lathes.  One page of instructions and one that has an exploded
parts diagram.  It may be close enough to yours to provide some useful info.
The PDF is 900 kb.

Posted and emailed.

Mike


Quote:
> I bought a Royal collet closer on eBay for my Clausing. It wasn't the
> right length, but I was sure I could modify it. Turns out to be 1-1/8
> too short. Oddly, the knurled ring that keeps the bearing from coming
> off the tube has an extension that comes back along the tube 1-1/8.
> Machine this off, and move the flange that carries the fingers back
> 1.125 and it ought to work just fine. Trouble is I can't figure out how
> to get that flange free from the tube. Just got done peering down the
> threaded holes that secure the tubular collar with two flat head screws,
> there sure doesn't appear to be a set***down there. (used a
> microscope and an optical fiber) Of course I've removed the snap ring.
> Is this thing just a nice tight slip fit and probably lightly rusted in
> place, or is there something I've overlooked?

> Thanks,

> Jon