Found Collection

>> Any help you can give

> Woodjunky

> Install a threaded shaft in a chuck. Minimize the runout and simply
> mount the discs on the shaft. Make sure there is some contact between
> the disc and the jaws of the chuck. This will provide friction to
> prevent the discs from turning. Then cut your groove. Do enough
> selection of your slotting tool to insure it is a butter cut for the
> bit.

> The alternative is to send these out to a CNC shop who will get them
> done in 1/10 the time it takes you.

> Bob  AZ

> Also try 12L14 steel. It costs a little more but well worth it for narrow,
> deep slots.
> Dixon

> 1. material size 3/8 thick  x 1 1/4 round.
> 2. a Center hole is drilled and the steel disk is chucked on a tapered
> mandrel
> between the chuck and a live center
> 3. The width of the cut is .028 and the depth is .080
> 4. the bottom profile of the slot is unimportant
> 5. the slot can be wider but tapered

> I have tried differt parting tool shapes as well as minature parting tools
> in carbide.
> Different feed rates and different profiles on the parting tools all of
> which have given me
> inconstant results and dull bits.
> I would like to turn several hundred of these disks and slot them with
> consistant results.

> I have even thought of using a slitting saw on a mill with a rotating
> table??

> Any help you can give

> Woodjunky

>  Yup!

>  Pretty much anything turns nicer than 1018, with 12L14 being about the
> nicest.

>  Only downside to the stuff is that it does not weld worth a damn. silver
> solder or brazing work fine though.

>  Pretty close to as easy to turn as brass.