I too use Testor's glue, Rufus. Nice and thick and stays well til the parts
are mated. Used to do everything with cyano, but that tended to make a mess
of any detail as well as the lack of set time. Harbor freight seems to have
a lot of cheap, useful tools like that. Found some nice small diamond files
there as well.
> OK, I'll start. Just finishing up the assembly of a Revell 70's vintage
> HE-219 German night fighter (working on the stash). Put lots of time
> into finding***pit pictures and scratch building the***pit fixtures
> as best I could. Then comes the assembly. Generally the kit pieces fit
> pretty well with the exception of several sink-holes and a couple of
> seams. Following my usual use of Squadron Green and lots of sanding
> things were looking pretty well. But following a coat of RLM 02 to the
> parts that would be fairly well hidden when the engines were attached to
> the fuselage, those pesky seams still show up in several places and
> parts of the sink holes still need some work. My approach has always
> been to use the enamel paint of the color of the final finish, brushed
> heavy into the problem areas and then sand that out when the brushed on
> paint over the problem areas is totally dry. Usually makes a pretty
> smooth surface for the application of the final finish. Any better
> ideas out there? I've heard of but never seen in California a product
> called "Mr Surfacer" or something like that. Would that provide
> better/faster/easier results? Always trying to do it better... I have a
> Harbior Freight/Indian produced dental pick set as well as their clay
> carving set. The latter is really useful for applying the Squadron Green
> with a little acetone/finger nail polish remover.
I used to see Mr Surfacer here in CA, but only at very select locations
like Brookhurst. Dunno if they'd still have it or not.
My fav putty is Tamiya putty - also hard to find in CA, but still around
and also available mail order. Best for filling sink holes...and just
plain the best all around. Squadron green used to be really good, but
the formulation was changed back in the 80s and I haven't been able to
make it work since.
As for seams - liquid glue and clamps, followed up with a Flexi-File on
things like wing edges and fuselage seams; use enough liquid glue to let
a bit of "molten" plastic flow out of the clamped seam. My favorite
clamps are Berna Assemblers - next best thing to the human
hand...whenever I see them I buy them, can't have enough of them! Using
this method you'll find you'll use very little putty. If any. I like
to use an artist's brush to apply liquid glue - a #1. I prefer
Testors...I like its working time.
If you really want a great tool for getting into tight spots and corner
seams like fillets and nacelle joins, get yourself a dental cavity file
- it's an angled instrument like a dental pick, but with a small knob of
a file on the end about twice the size of the head of a pin. I found
mine at a gun show for about $2-3 as I recall. One of *the* most useful
tools on my bench.
...and I'm waiting in earnest for the big 1/32 He 219 from Revell of
Germany - it was supposed to be in stores for Christmas, now they're
saying January...the teases!