Found Collection

> T2

> T2

> T2

> : OK, I'll start.  Just finishing up the assembly of a Revell 70's vintage
> :
> : could.  Then comes the assembly.  Generally the kit pieces fit pretty
> well
> : with the exception of several sink-holes and a couple of seams.
> Following
> :
> : fairly well hidden when the engines were attached to the fuselage, those
> : pesky seams still show up in several places and parts of the sink holes
> : still need some work.
> :
> I like Tamiya thin cement - the green topped bottle. I use a
>    lot of tamiya cement to close the gaps - the glue capillaries very
>    well, and it tends to draw the plastic into the seam.

> Mr. Surfacer 500 is still my favorite filler. I apply with a
>    toothpick (wooden), and let it sit for around 24 hours. If an additional
>    application is required, I add it.

> A lot of elbow grease and rubbing *** will remove Mr.
>    Surfacer if you have detail you don't want to risk. Add some favorite
>    brew (***) to the mix as required. Otherwise, I use x-acto
>    blades to cut off excess filler, x-acto blades to s***the filler
>    off (works best on convex or flat surfaces. Avoid on concave
>    surfaces), files and sandpaper if I don't want to invest the time
>    rubbing the surface down with ***.

> As for Squadron Green - I find I swear at it much more than
>    I have ever sworn by it - it never stops shrinking.

> Bruce

> T2

>> OK, I'll start.  Just finishing up the assembly of a Revell 70's vintage
>> HE-219 German night fighter (working on the stash).  Put lots of time
>> into finding***pit pictures and scratch building the***pit fixtures
>> as best I could.  Then comes the assembly.  Generally the kit pieces fit
>> pretty well with the exception of several sink-holes and a couple of
>> seams.  Following my usual use of Squadron Green and lots of sanding
>> things were looking pretty well.  But following a coat of RLM 02 to the
>> parts that would be fairly well hidden when the engines were attached to
>> the fuselage, those pesky seams still show up in several places and
>> parts of the sink holes still need some work.   My approach has always
>> been to use the enamel paint of the color of the final finish, brushed
>> heavy into the problem areas and then sand that out when the brushed on
>> paint over the problem areas is totally dry.  Usually makes a pretty
>> smooth surface for the application of the final finish.  Any better
>> ideas out there?  I've heard of but never seen in California a product
>> called "Mr Surfacer" or something like that.  Would that provide
>> better/faster/easier results?  Always trying to do it better...  I
>> have a Harbior Freight/Indian produced dental pick set as well as
>> their clay carving set.  The latter is really useful for applying the
>> Squadron Green with a little acetone/finger nail polish remover.

>> T2

> I used to see Mr Surfacer here in CA, but only at very select locations
> like Brookhurst.  Dunno if they'd still have it or not.

> My fav putty is Tamiya putty - also hard to find in CA, but still around
> and also available mail order.  Best for filling sink holes...and just
> plain the best all around.  Squadron green used to be really good, but
> the formulation was changed back in the 80s and I haven't been able to
> make it work since.

> As for seams - liquid glue and clamps, followed up with a Flexi-File on
> things like wing edges and fuselage seams; use enough liquid glue to let
> a bit of "molten" plastic flow out of the clamped seam.  My favorite
> clamps are Berna Assemblers - next best thing to the human
> hand...whenever I see them I buy them, can't have enough of them!  Using
> this method you'll find you'll use very little putty.  If any.  I like
> to use an artist's brush to apply liquid glue - a #1.  I prefer
> Testors...I like its working time.

> If you really want a great tool for getting into tight spots and corner
> seams like fillets and nacelle joins, get yourself a dental cavity file
> - it's an angled instrument like a dental pick, but with a small knob of
> a file on the end about twice the size of the head of a pin.  I found
> mine at a gun show for about $2-3 as I recall.  One of *the* most useful
> tools on my bench.

> ...and I'm waiting in earnest for the big 1/32 He 219 from Revell of
> Germany - it was supposed to be in stores for Christmas, now they're
> saying January...the teases!

> T2

>> Any better ideas out there?  I've heard of but never seen in
>> California a product called "Mr Surfacer" or something like that.
>> Would that provide better/faster/easier results?  Always trying to do
>> it better...

> If you can't find Mr Surfacer, try White Out. It's about the same
> thickness, sands roughly the same and costs way less : )

> J

> T2

>> OK, I'll start.  Just finishing up the assembly of a Revell 70's vintage
>> HE-219 German night fighter (working on the stash).  Put lots of time
>> into finding***pit pictures and scratch building the***pit fixtures
>> as best I could.  Then comes the assembly.  Generally the kit pieces fit
>> pretty well with the exception of several sink-holes and a couple of
>> seams.  Following my usual use of Squadron Green and lots of sanding
>> things were looking pretty well.  But following a coat of RLM 02 to the
>> parts that would be fairly well hidden when the engines were attached to
>> the fuselage, those pesky seams still show up in several places and
>> parts of the sink holes still need some work.   My approach has always
>> been to use the enamel paint of the color of the final finish, brushed
>> heavy into the problem areas and then sand that out when the brushed on
>> paint over the problem areas is totally dry.  Usually makes a pretty
>> smooth surface for the application of the final finish.  Any better
>> ideas out there?  I've heard of but never seen in California a product
>> called "Mr Surfacer" or something like that.  Would that provide
>> better/faster/easier results?  Always trying to do it better...  I
>> have a Harbior Freight/Indian produced dental pick set as well as
>> their clay carving set.  The latter is really useful for applying the
>> Squadron Green with a little acetone/finger nail polish remover.

>> T2

> I used to see Mr Surfacer here in CA, but only at very select locations
> like Brookhurst.  Dunno if they'd still have it or not.

> My fav putty is Tamiya putty - also hard to find in CA, but still around
> and also available mail order.  Best for filling sink holes...and just
> plain the best all around.  Squadron green used to be really good, but
> the formulation was changed back in the 80s and I haven't been able to
> make it work since.

> As for seams - liquid glue and clamps, followed up with a Flexi-File on
> things like wing edges and fuselage seams; use enough liquid glue to let
> a bit of "molten" plastic flow out of the clamped seam.  My favorite
> clamps are Berna Assemblers - next best thing to the human
> hand...whenever I see them I buy them, can't have enough of them!  Using
> this method you'll find you'll use very little putty.  If any.  I like
> to use an artist's brush to apply liquid glue - a #1.  I prefer
> Testors...I like its working time.

> If you really want a great tool for getting into tight spots and corner
> seams like fillets and nacelle joins, get yourself a dental cavity file
> - it's an angled instrument like a dental pick, but with a small knob of
> a file on the end about twice the size of the head of a pin.  I found
> mine at a gun show for about $2-3 as I recall.  One of *the* most useful
> tools on my bench.

> ...and I'm waiting in earnest for the big 1/32 He 219 from Revell of
> Germany - it was supposed to be in stores for Christmas, now they're
> saying January...the teases!

> T2

> : OK, I'll start.  Just finishing up the assembly of a Revell 70's vintage
> :
> : could.  Then comes the assembly.  Generally the kit pieces fit pretty
> well
> : with the exception of several sink-holes and a couple of seams.
> Following
> :
> : fairly well hidden when the engines were attached to the fuselage, those
> : pesky seams still show up in several places and parts of the sink holes
> : still need some work.
> :
> I like Tamiya thin cement - the green topped bottle. I use a
>    lot of tamiya cement to close the gaps - the glue capillaries very
>    well, and it tends to draw the plastic into the seam.

> Mr. Surfacer 500 is still my favorite filler. I apply with a
>    toothpick (wooden), and let it sit for around 24 hours. If an
> additional
>    application is required, I add it.

> A lot of elbow grease and rubbing *** will remove Mr.
>    Surfacer if you have detail you don't want to risk. Add some favorite
>    brew (***) to the mix as required. Otherwise, I use x-acto
>    blades to cut off excess filler, x-acto blades to s***the filler
>    off (works best on convex or flat surfaces. Avoid on concave
>    surfaces), files and sandpaper if I don't want to invest the time
>    rubbing the surface down with ***.

> As for Squadron Green - I find I swear at it much more than
>    I have ever sworn by it - it never stops shrinking.

> Bruce

> Black cyano??  Never heard of that.   Sounds messy.  Auto parts store?
> What do you use it on?

> For 1/700 ship PE parts, I still use a little white glue to get them
> into position and then cyano carefully to finish them.

> T2

> I don't use the thick Testors stuff anymore...ahhh - the old red tube!
> I use the thin, liquid stuff.  Apply it with a brush.  And clamp - it's
> really the proper use of clamps that eliminates seams.

> I also like to use the black cyano meant for tires.  It's easier to see
> where you're putting it, it's more flexible, and has a longer working
> time.  For smaller flat etched parts I'll also use watch crystal cement.

> T2

> Squadron white is finer grained, but cracks and falls out...very easily.