When cutting the slots in the manifold, what is the max thickness of the
slots, and how to you debur the inside of the tubes?
thanks
John
thanks
John
I didn't do anything to debur the insides. You probably want to run some
plain water through it a couple times to make sure you get rid of any
loose metal shavings, etc. Burs shouldn't hurt anything as long as they
stay attached.
John.
http://alfter.us/heatstick/actionshots/
A drill press helps avoid bit breakage.
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(IIGS( http://alfter.us/ Top-posting!
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Another option is a sawzall blade with more teeth.. I see if i have a 24
tooth or so and try that.
I think I have some cutoff blades for a pneumatic cutoff tool, I havent
measured the thickness but i think it is a little smaller than the other
cutoff wheel.
Shaggy, I dont know, the burs bother me, if the .070 is not too thick I
might just use that, if its too thick I guess the drill press has its work
cut out for it.
Thanks of all the help guys. I am a new here, but you will be seeing alot
of me..
You know though , the newsgroup is a little slow, not many people posting,
what is the best forum out there for brewing?
thanks
john
> Mine are drilled, not slotted. I think I used a 1/16" or 3/32" bit, with
> one
> hole about every 1/4" over about 20' of 3/8" o/d soft copper tubing. This
> is then wound into a spiral and installed in the mash tun. A picture of
> it
> in use is here (2nd picture, though the heatsticks cover most of it):
> http://alfter.us/heatstick/actionshots/
> A drill press helps avoid bit breakage.
>>and how to you debur the inside of the tubes?
> You can't. Fortunately, small holes drilled in soft copper will be fairly
> clean right off the bat.
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> / v \ Scott Alfter (remove the obvious to send mail)
> (IIGS( http://alfter.us/ Top-posting!
> \_^_/ rm -rf /bin/laden >What's the most annoying thing on
> Usenet?
> thanks
> John
Works great... slots are not necessary. plain drill holes work fine.
When I built a manifold last year I cut the slots on my table saw
(using a carbide blade) after soldering it together. I used 1/2
copper pipe, and cut about 1/3rd of the way through for the slots.
The slots were about 1/8 inch wide.
By moving the fence after each cut I obtained regularly spaced slots.
Carbide-toothed blades cut non-ferrous metals well.
Even at a 1/8 inch slot width the manifold has worked great. Last
night I brewed a batch with 10 pounds of base malt and 6 pound of corn
grits. After the vorlauf, my wort ran clear. I've brewed 30 batches
with this manifold and have never had a stuck sparge (even with using
corn or rice as 40% of the grain bill with no additional hulls).
Cheers!
Scott P.
Brewing in Boise, Idaho
>thanks
>John
1. Effects from using a copper manifold for mashing
3. Plans for copper manifold wanted
4. copper manifold for cooler?
7. (coppers/SS/plastic) sparge manifold materials
9. Phalse Bottom or copper manifold?
10. Copper Sparge Manifold Problems
11. Plastic versus copper manifolds
12. Copper Manifold for Brewpot
13. Soldering? Copper Mash Tun Manifold