Quote:
>I'm looking for a good manifold system for my 10 gal Gott cooler. I
>can't find the proper parts.
What the "proper" parts are is a function of the picture of the setup in
your head...in this regard, the best advice is "simplify, simplify,
simplify!"
Quote:
>1. Bulkhead fitting. All I can find is a bulkhead fitting that has 3/8
The only "bulkhead fitting" you need for a Gott is the plastic spigot
that you put in to replace the pushbutton one...It is inserted from the
outside and has a *** gasket that keeps it from leaking. Inside, you
just tighten up the plastic nut...I bought my Gott at The Cellar in
Seattle, and it came with the correct kind of spigot.
Quote:
>2. Valves. I can't find any "spigot" valves like the EasyMasher uses
See comment on point 1 - the plastic spigot is the "valve." I also have
made ersatz EMs for kettles, and I know what you are talking about, it is
hard to find ones like Jack uses. I _believe_ the spigot on the real EM
is an air drain***. However, I much _prefer_ the "in-line" type that
you refer to, with a 3/8" male pipe inside. The female pipe to 3/8"
compression fitting inside is what holds the drain valve tight. Outside
you need two stainless washers and a fiber washer, or else you won't be
able to get the fitting inside tight enough to seal because of the taper
threads (unless of course you have dies so you can convert the male pipe
taper to straight thread). The reason I prefer it for the kettle is that
the outside of the valve is a 3/8" flare (or compression if you prefer),
and all my hoses have a short piece of copper tube stuck in them with a
flare nut. Kettle drain to input of CF chiller is just tightening up two
flare nuts... Try that with a real EM...you have to slip the hose on the
end of the spigot, attach a worm hose clamp, and pray that it holds when
the 212^ wort starts softening the hose...
Quote:
>2. 3/8" copper tubing. No T's or L's are available for this size pipe
>(except compression T's which are huge).
Lost me here...what do you want T's or L's for? Aren't we using a rolled
stainless mesh screen inside? If not, why not? It truly does beat a
drilled or slotted manifold in use. We just stick a drilled stopper in
the inside of the plastic spigot, and the end of the 3/8" copper tube
slips neatly inside the drilled stopper. You could do this of course
even if you were using a drilled or lotted ring...no need for a T or L,
just stick the "out" end into the drilled stopper and insert it in the
inside of the plastic spigot.
Quote:
>3. If I could find a 3/8 x 1/2 x 1/2 compression "T" I could use 1/2"
>copper pipe for the manifold (in a circle configuration), and use the 3/8
>bulkhead fitting. But does such a "T" exist?
Ditto...
Quote:
>4. Are there any mail-order catalogs the list brass and copper parts?
>This would make this job infinitely easier!
>5. I'm open to ANY ideas that will make building this manifold easier.
>I'm trying to avoid just using a *** stopper to attach the manifold, as
>it doesn't seem too secure.
There is nothing "insecure" about using a drilled stopper, as long as you
insert it from the inside rather than the outside...The pressure just
pushes it further into the spigot. The idea that will make it easier is
to simplify it...