Centering rings from scratch(wood actually)

Centering rings from scratch(wood actually)

Post by Chris Kieken » Mon, 14 Oct 2002 00:29:09



The topic of centering rings has come up several times. I do not own a drill
press, or a fly cutter, but I do have a router with a cheesy plastic table
that seems to work out for me.
I thought I would post a couple of pictures to show how I make centering
rings, please be gentle in your comments. I am not a professional woodworker
(obviously), and welcome constructive critisism. I have had great luck with
this method, with minimal time invested.
I am sure there is a better way, a safer way, and a faster way; but this, so
far, is my way...
Please no comments on spelling..as I don't care..

Chris

http://members.rogers.com/kiekens

 
 
 

Centering rings from scratch(wood actually)

Post by RayDunak » Mon, 14 Oct 2002 05:06:16


<< The topic of centering rings has come up several times. I do not own a drill
press, or a fly cutter, but I do have a router with a cheesy plastic table that
seems to work out for me. I thought I would post a couple of pictures to show
how I make centering rings, please be gentle in your comments. >>

Looks good! Nice site.

 
 
 

Centering rings from scratch(wood actually)

Post by Kevin Trojanowsk » Mon, 14 Oct 2002 06:18:26


Quote:

> http://members.rogers.com/kiekens

Looks good.  I do like the "fancy" pivot point, too.  8-}

FWIW, you should be able to cut the ID the same way you're cutting the OD.

-Kevin

 
 
 

Centering rings from scratch(wood actually)

Post by Chris Kieken » Mon, 14 Oct 2002 07:13:00


I tried the ID in a simalar manner to the OD but didn't have very good
results..
I could be missing something obvious...

Quote:

> > http://members.rogers.com/kiekens

> Looks good.  I do like the "fancy" pivot point, too.  8-}

> FWIW, you should be able to cut the ID the same way you're cutting the OD.

> -Kevin

 
 
 

Centering rings from scratch(wood actually)

Post by Eric Benne » Mon, 14 Oct 2002 10:51:33


Chris,

That's great! I would do the inner cuts differently, but my way would be
slightly more complicated. Just watch out for your fingers.

Loved the slide show, too. I'm on dial-up and it didn't bog me down.

--
Eric Benner  TRA 8975
                   NAR 79389
(remove "freeofspam" to reply)

Quote:
> The topic of centering rings has come up several times. I do not own a
drill
> press, or a fly cutter, but I do have a router with a cheesy plastic table
> that seems to work out for me.
> I thought I would post a couple of pictures to show how I make centering
> rings, please be gentle in your comments. I am not a professional
woodworker
> (obviously), and welcome constructive critisism. I have had great luck
with
> this method, with minimal time invested.
> I am sure there is a better way, a safer way, and a faster way; but this,
so
> far, is my way...
> Please no comments on spelling..as I don't care..

> Chris

> http://members.rogers.com/kiekens

 
 
 

Centering rings from scratch(wood actually)

Post by Bob Kapl » Mon, 14 Oct 2002 22:15:30



Quote:
> I tried the ID in a simalar manner to the OD but didn't have very good
> results..

Rotate the other way?

Using the method you show, you'll be able to more accurately keep the ring
centered with a "V" shaped backstop than the "C" shaped one that comes with
your router table.

One of these days I'll have to document how to build a CHAD milling table
like I used for making centering rings when all I had was a disk sander.
The design is adaptable to making round things on so any different
machines...

        Bob Kaplow      NAR # 18L       TRA # "Impeach the TRA BoD"
                >>> To reply, remove the TRABoD! <<<
Kaplow Klips & Baffle:      http://www.pleimling.org/le/Phantom4000.pdf
NIRA:   http://www.nira-rocketry.org    NAR:    http://www.nar.org

        26-October, 2001: A day that will live in infamy
        Support Freedom: http://www.indefenseoffreedom.org/

        You [should] not examine legislation in the light of the
        benefits it will convey if properly administered, but in the
        light of the wrongs it would do and the harm it would cause if
        improperly administered -- Lyndon Johnson, former President of
        the U.S.

 
 
 

Centering rings from scratch(wood actually)

Post by Richard Hubbar » Mon, 14 Oct 2002 21:57:36


Please do!

Quote:


>>I tried the ID in a simalar manner to the OD but didn't have very good
>>results..

> Rotate the other way?

> Using the method you show, you'll be able to more accurately keep the ring
> centered with a "V" shaped backstop than the "C" shaped one that comes with
> your router table.

> One of these days I'll have to document how to build a CHAD milling table
> like I used for making centering rings when all I had was a disk sander.
> The design is adaptable to making round things on so any different
> machines...

>    Bob Kaplow      NAR # 18L       TRA # "Impeach the TRA BoD"
>            >>> To reply, remove the TRABoD! <<<
> Kaplow Klips & Baffle: http://www.pleimling.org/le/Phantom4000.pdf
> NIRA:      http://www.nira-rocketry.org    NAR:    http://www.nar.org

>    26-October, 2001: A day that will live in infamy
>    Support Freedom: http://www.indefenseoffreedom.org/

>         You [should] not examine legislation in the light of the
>         benefits it will convey if properly administered, but in the
>         light of the wrongs it would do and the harm it would cause if
>         improperly administered -- Lyndon Johnson, former President of
>         the U.S.

--
Richard A. Hubbard (remove the nospam to actually mail me)
"There are 10 kinds of people in the world, those who understand binary,
and those who don't"
 
 
 

Centering rings from scratch(wood actually)

Post by Chris Kieken » Mon, 14 Oct 2002 19:27:04


I previously tried a V shaped fence, but I was trying for the OD at the
time(dumb, I know). After having no results, I gave up on the V. Maybe I
will give it a shot again for the ID.

Thanks for all the input.

I would love to see your plans for a milling table, but I would also like to
know what a milling table is?


Quote:


> > I tried the ID in a simalar manner to the OD but didn't have very good
> > results..

> Rotate the other way?

> Using the method you show, you'll be able to more accurately keep the ring
> centered with a "V" shaped backstop than the "C" shaped one that comes
with
> your router table.

> One of these days I'll have to document how to build a CHAD milling table
> like I used for making centering rings when all I had was a disk sander.
> The design is adaptable to making round things on so any different
> machines...

> Bob Kaplow NAR # 18L TRA # "Impeach the TRA BoD"
> >>> To reply, remove the TRABoD! <<<
> Kaplow Klips & Baffle: http://www.pleimling.org/le/Phantom4000.pdf
> NIRA: http://www.nira-rocketry.org NAR: http://www.nar.org

> 26-October, 2001: A day that will live in infamy
> Support Freedom: http://www.indefenseoffreedom.org/

>         You [should] not examine legislation in the light of the
>         benefits it will convey if properly administered, but in the
>         light of the wrongs it would do and the harm it would cause if
>         improperly administered -- Lyndon Johnson, former President of
>         the U.S.

 
 
 

Centering rings from scratch(wood actually)

Post by Bob Kapl » Tue, 15 Oct 2002 00:10:46



Quote:
> Please do!


>> One of these days I'll have to document how to build a CHAD milling table
>> like I used for making centering rings when all I had was a disk sander.
>> The design is adaptable to making round things on so any different
>> machines...

The idea is stolen from a balsa *** plan in an old NFFS digest. Can't
recall if it was by Drela, Stoy, or someone else. I've described it before
in words, and the concept is simple enough that you should be able to figure
it out and adapt it to your needs. The concept is pretty simple.

You build a jig out of a sheet of plywood, hardwood, or whatever suits your
fancy. A piece of 1/4" (or other size to suit your needs) rod is used as a
pivot pin to turn the ring, much as was done with the drill bit in the root
of this thread.

The key is the adjustability, which is stolen from a metal lathe or milling
machine feed. A piece of threaded rod is chosen for the feed screw. If you
like to work in fractional inch, use 8-32 rod. If you like decimal inch use
1/4-20 or perhaps 4-40. If you're into metric find some metric threaded rod
with .5mm threads. This is your feed***to move the pivot closer or
further from your cutter. Each turn of the rod will change your radius by
the thread pitch, or your diameter by twice the thread pitch.

Next build a dial indicator. You want a disk perhaps 1-2" in diameter
calibrated around its circumference. If you used 8-32 rod, calibrate your
disk in inch fractions, each turn being 1/32" RADIUS or 1/16" DIAMETER. You
might choose to divide the disk into 8 sectors, making 1/128" diameter
calibrations. For 1/4-20, each turn is 1/10" diameter, and 10 sectors make
1/100" diameter calibrations. And for 0.5mm, each turn is 1mm diameter,
again 10 sectors making 0.1mm calibrations. You'll need a thin piece of
plywood, plastic, or G10 for the disk. Near the edge, attach a small handle,
which can be a small machine***bolted through the disk. To mount it to
the threaded rod, glue a T-nut against the CENTER of the flat plate.

Take a second T nut, and thread it on the rod with the plate facing IN
towards the long piece of the rod. Then put the dial T nut on the opposite
way, with the plate out. Jamb the two together so neither will move. Add a
drop of CA or locktite if necessary to secure them to the rod.

Now put a nut (a square nut will work better if you can find one) on the
threaded rod you've chosen. This becomes the base to hold the center point.
Weld, solder or glue the pivot pin to a flat of the nut. You might want to
add a few bushings to the threaded rod, one near the handle, and one at the
end of the rod, for support on each side of the nut/pin.

This whole assemble is put in a slot of a wood base. The slot should be just
large enough for the (square) nut to fit in, both in depth and in width.
Only the pin should stick above the base surface. Using something like a
Dremel cutof fwheel cut a slot for the second T-nut flange near the end of
the block. There must be no slop when the T-nut is put in this slot, yet the
T-nut must turn freely in the slot. This holds the handle in place.

You've now got a milling machine style adjustable pin. Clamp the jig to your
tool of choice (router bit, Rotozip, sanding disk, band saw, or whatever).
Drill a 1/4" (or whatever your pin size is) hole in the piece of wood you
want to make into a disk. Put it over the pin. Crank the handle until the
far edge is in contact with your cutter, turn and cut. You can make fine
adjustments with the calibrated handle to get just the size you need.

WARNING: Bad ASCII art follows: top view

         _______________________________________________
        |                                               |
        |                                               |
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        |                                               |
        |                                               |
        |                                               |  ]~~
        +---------------------------------------------[-+  ]
        =O================N========================O==[====]
        +---------------------------------------------[-+  ]
        |                                               |  ]
        |                                               |
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        |                                               |
        |                                               |
        |_______________________________________________|

= threaded rod
O bushing to support threaded rod
N square nut with center point attached to one flat
[ T-nut in slot to position rod assembly in block
] T-nut with calibrated faceplate glued in place
~ handle to turn rod assembly

Turning the crank and the nut with pin (N) moves left or right. With the
recommended thread pitch choices, you can easilly get 1/100" accuracy with
this device.

        Bob Kaplow      NAR # 18L       TRA # "Impeach the TRA BoD"
                >>> To reply, remove the TRABoD! <<<
Kaplow Klips & Baffle:      http://www.FoundCollection.com/
NIRA:   http://www.FoundCollection.com/    NAR:    http://www.FoundCollection.com/

        26-October, 2001: A day that will live in infamy
        Support Freedom: http://www.FoundCollection.com/

        You [should] not examine legislation in the light of the
        benefits it will convey if properly administered, but in the
        light of the wrongs it would do and the harm it would cause if
        improperly administered -- Lyndon Johnson, former President of
        the U.S.

 
 
 

Centering rings from scratch(wood actually)

Post by Eric Benne » Tue, 15 Oct 2002 03:50:53


Quote:

> WARNING: Bad ASCII art follows: top view

> _______________________________________________
> | |
> | |
> | |
> | |
> | |
> | |  ]~~
> +---------------------------------------------[-+  ]
> =O================N========================O==[====]
> +---------------------------------------------[-+  ]
> | |  ]
> | |
> | |
> | |
> | |
> |_______________________________________________|

> = threaded rod
> O bushing to support threaded rod
> N square nut with center point attached to one flat
> [ T-nut in slot to position rod assembly in block
> ] T-nut with calibrated faceplate glued in place
> ~ handle to turn rod assembly

Bob,

I need to take your ASCII-Cad drawing class some time.

--
Eric Benner  TRA 8975
                   NAR 79389
(remove "freeofspam" to reply)

 
 
 

Centering rings from scratch(wood actually)

Post by Richard Hubbar » Tue, 15 Oct 2002 04:37:50


Thanks! Now I have at least one winter project to go along with my
vostock and S1B!

Quote:


>>Please do!


<snip>
> WARNING: Bad ASCII art follows: top view

better 'n I can do!
>     _______________________________________________
>    |                                               |
>    |                                               |
>    |                                               |
>    |                                               |
>    |                                               |
>    |                                               |  ]~~
>    +---------------------------------------------[-+  ]
>    =O================N========================O==[====]
>    +---------------------------------------------[-+  ]
>    |                                               |  ]
>    |                                               |
>    |                                               |
>    |                                               |
>    |                                               |
>    |_______________________________________________|

> = threaded rod
> O bushing to support threaded rod
> N square nut with center point attached to one flat
> [ T-nut in slot to position rod assembly in block
> ] T-nut with calibrated faceplate glued in place
> ~ handle to turn rod assembly

> Turning the crank and the nut with pin (N) moves left or right. With the
> recommended thread pitch choices, you can easilly get 1/100" accuracy with
> this device.

>    Bob Kaplow      NAR # 18L       TRA # "Impeach the TRA BoD"
>            >>> To reply, remove the TRABoD! <<<
> Kaplow Klips & Baffle: http://www.pleimling.org/le/Phantom4000.pdf
> NIRA:      http://www.nira-rocketry.org    NAR:    http://www.nar.org

>    26-October, 2001: A day that will live in infamy
>    Support Freedom: http://www.indefenseoffreedom.org/

>         You [should] not examine legislation in the light of the
>         benefits it will convey if properly administered, but in the
>         light of the wrongs it would do and the harm it would cause if
>         improperly administered -- Lyndon Johnson, former President of
>         the U.S.

--
Richard A. Hubbard (remove the nospam to actually mail me)
"There are 10 kinds of people in the world, those who understand binary,
and those who don't"
 
 
 

Centering rings from scratch(wood actually)

Post by Bob Kapl » Tue, 15 Oct 2002 11:31:19



Quote:
> I need to take your ASCII-Cad drawing class some time.

Let me tell you, back in the old days it was a LOT harder. We had to punch
all the characters by hand on paper tape. It would have taken an entire day
to produce that drawing that I zipped out in 15 minutes or so with a WYSIWYG
editor. Of course I've been using basically that same editor since I got my
first home computer 25 years ago, so I've had a bit of practice with it now...

        Bob Kaplow      NAR # 18L       TRA # "Impeach the TRA BoD"
                >>> To reply, remove the TRABoD! <<<
Kaplow Klips & Baffle:      http://www.pleimling.org/le/Phantom4000.pdf
NIRA:   http://www.nira-rocketry.org    NAR:    http://www.nar.org

        26-October, 2001: A day that will live in infamy
        Support Freedom: http://www.indefenseoffreedom.org/

        You [should] not examine legislation in the light of the
        benefits it will convey if properly administered, but in the
        light of the wrongs it would do and the harm it would cause if
        improperly administered -- Lyndon Johnson, former President of
        the U.S.