Aerotec models // motors

Aerotec models // motors

Post by Fox » Sun, 22 Dec 1996 04:00:00



My son and I have just pruchased a Starter kit from Aerotech.  It
contains the fire controller and mantis launcher.  The model in it is
the Initiator.  It also came with 2 E15-4W engines.  The stats say
approx. 660 feet.  Is this about what I can expect if finished within
weights given for model?  About how large of an area do we need.
Also could some one explain to me how a single lead (copperhead)
ignitor works?  I understand two leads =short which heats and ignites
the motor, but this one lead has me baffled right now.  What is the W<
J and T on the motors really mean besides a name like white lightning.
Are they all the same power or what?  

Did I make a good choice for this catagory of rocket, in choosing the
Aerotec Initiator?  The dealer here in our area is not experienced in
anything other than A,B,C Estes motors and kits and just got these
Aerotec kits in today.  Missing was the box that was supposed to have
the 2 motors that are included in the kit, so I had to choose and
picked the E154-W.   Was this a wise choice?  Would it be worth it if
I made the move to the RMS motors?  Guess I don't need to count my
chickens before their hatched (launched in this case)  Guess I will
have to see if it survives its launches on the motors I have.

Thanks again, especially for info with the Sidewinder kit.

Foxeye

 
 
 

Aerotec models // motors

Post by TMiller1 » Mon, 23 Dec 1996 04:00:00


Foxeye,

You picked a good kit, although I would have opted for the RMS version.
The Initiator is supposed to come with an E and an F motor, so you shorted
yourself by accepting 2 E's.  I don't know the actual Single Use (SU)
motors supplied with the kit, but the Initiator has a 29mm mount.  You
chose 24mm SU's so you must fly with an adaptor and I personally try to
avoid them.

My data sheet indicates 650 ft for the Initiator on E-15's.  That would be
for specification weight and no wind - your altitude will vary.  You will
want a field with at least 1000 feet down wind (NAR Safety Code) but you
could probably get by with less.

Copperhead ingniters have two leads.  The "leads" are the foil on either
side of the igniter, separated by a thin plastic sheet.  You can use the
Aerotech clip, or simply "V-fold" tape onto the igniter and use regular
clips.  Make sure each clip touches one foil side and one tape side only.

Fuel formulas are, in order of increasing strength requirements for your
rocket with respect to the same impulse provided by each propellant :

J = Black Jack - Low thrust, long burn -- Dense Black Smoke, Loud Roar

W = White Lightning - Medium thrust and burn -- Dense White Smoke, More of
a loud "Shoosh" sound than a roar.

T = Blue Thunder - High Thrust, Short Burn -- Hardly any smoke, Violet
Flame, Damn near an "explosion" off the pad.

Hope this helps


 
 
 

Aerotec models // motors

Post by Eric32 » Tue, 24 Dec 1996 04:00:00


  As stated in the previous post you were shorted by accepting 2 E15s.
Forget buying from your local hobby shop, buy mail order from one of the
many Aerotech dealers. Magnum is a large one,
(http://www.tyrell.net/~scwhite/magnum/magnum.html).
Kevin Funk is a small timer but has good prices and service,
(http://www2.connectnet.com/~kfunk/DiscountRocketry.html)

You will save $$$ if you go RMS and fly frequently.

Now here's a trick for copperheads (remember to buy extras, many extras)
use a lighter on the tip of the leads (NOT the pyrogen (black part)), it
will melt the plastic layer attaching the copper foil leads together and
they will separate. Wipe off soot and use regular two clip system on them.
If you already have the Interlock controller you can use the special clip
with unmodified ignitors  or attach two heavy duty alligator clips to the
wire and use modified copperheads as described above. Either way you must
use a good 12v power source, car, motorcycle, or gel-cell batteries will
work, copperheads require a *lot* of juice to fire. If you have an ignitor
that refuses to fire, replace it. Ignitor installation into the E15 is a
real pain, the nozzle is tiny and you must be sure to get the copperhead
in the slot all the way, otherwise it will chuff and may do a steam engine
imitation on the pad (puff-puff-puff-puff-ROAAAAR.....).
Good luck

 
 
 

Aerotec models // motors

Post by Chop » Tue, 24 Dec 1996 04:00:00


      As stated in the previous post you were shorted by accepting 2 E15s.
    Forget buying from your local hobby shop, buy mail order from one of the
    many Aerotech dealers.

Local hobby stores need support too, especially if you want them to
continue to carry any aerotech products at all.  Being able to get
a composite motor in your hands in an hour or less is worth paying
25% more a few times a year...

BillW

 
 
 

Aerotec models // motors

Post by Foxe » Wed, 25 Dec 1996 04:00:00


True you may be able to save money by mail order...but with all the
price lists and catqlogs I have been receiving, until I wait, pay
shipping and hazmat charges.....it is actually been cheaper buying
local than mail order.  I have not found any places that overall were
cheaper.  I am paying 6.30 for a E15-4W and 7.25 for the F????
Aerotech motor.  Standard A, B, C estes motors run 4.15 to 5.00 per 3
pak.  Is this to high.  Point me to cheaper places if you can, as that
woulld make for more launches if I can save.

Thanks Foxeye

 
 
 

Aerotec models // motors

Post by DG » Wed, 25 Dec 1996 04:00:00


Quote:

> Fuel formulas are, in order of increasing strength requirements for your
> rocket with respect to the same impulse provided by each propellant :

> J = Black Jack - Low thrust, long burn -- Dense Black Smoke, Loud Roar

> W = White Lightning - Medium thrust and burn -- Dense White Smoke, More of
> a loud "Shoosh" sound than a roar.

> T = Blue Thunder - High Thrust, Short Burn -- Hardly any smoke, Violet
> Flame, Damn near an "explosion" off the pad.

Especially if it's one of the bad I435's

--
DG
TRA #4666