Found Collection

I don't know if this is still available. It would probably have to be
ordered specially by your dealer.

The Marklin engine would not go thru Atlas switches. The Atlas switches
I tried then would have needed work to open up flangeways in frog, etc,
before Marklin engines could navugate them.

What I did was make a small (4'X6') test layout. I used Atlas flex track
and Tru-Scale switch kits. Since these switch kits had movable frogs, it
was easier to get them to take Marklin trains. I laid a loop with a
passing siding and a stub siding - using a total of three switches.
Since it was a test & I used flex track I did not lay extended ties for
the third rail brackets, as would normally be the case.

Once I figured how high the 3rd rail had to be, I made a height gauge
(tubing with slit in side soldered to brass rod) so I could hammer nails
to table top + have them all at same height, 3rd rail was soldered to
these nails.

I had some old RMC + MRR magazines from 40's and 30's that had articles
on laying outside 3rd rail, so was able to get some hints on where to
lay the 3rd rail around switches.

The layout was wired so I could run either Marklin with outside 3rd rail
or regular 2 rail HO (not in same block of course).

I converted the Marklin engine to DC by replacing the solenoid with a
couple of diodes and installed Kadee couplers.

If you want to try Atlas or some other track with your Marklin, it would
be best to build a test layout first + make sure you get the bugs out
before you go on to a major layout.

I have been thinking for a while now about reviving
my Marklin trains, but the cost of the track etc
is prohibitive if you can find it. Also, you can't
run conventional locos either.

Short of buying lots of expensive K track, there might
be a way to convert Atlas Flextrack and standard cork
roadbed into a Marklin and everything else compatible
system. It goes like this:

Use Atlas or other flextrack as usual. When laying cork
roadbed, put down half of it. Then lay in a special
studded black brass centre rail and fasten it to
the roadbed somehow. Then lay down the other half
of the roadbed and finally put the track on top!

The obvious obstacle is that there is no currently
available black brass studded centre rail. Is there any
interest in this group among Marklin fans for some of
this stuff? The tool is not that expensive and could
be amortized rather quickly if there is a commitment
for enough of the rail. Is it cheaper to just bite the
bullet and buy K track?

Comments via email and posting are welcome.

--

Cheers,

Ralph Hempel - P.Eng

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CAN THE SPAM - Reply to "rhempel at log dot on dot ca"
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Another way of doing it:

Before laying the roadbed glue down a stripe of alluminium foil.
Lay the track as usual. Now use small nails and put them between
the sleepers, through the roadbed and through the alluminium foil.
The nails will make contact with the foil, and will make a
perfect centre rail. At switches make sure that the nails are
higher than the rail.

I used this method when I was a kid and could not afford the
Dfl 45,- Marklin switches so I bought a Lima switch for Dfl 14,-.
It worked fine. I used nails with a flat head (I had these),
but the contact shou made some noise on them. Perhaps you should
try nails with a round head.

To bad you are not living here. You can buy second hand Marklin
M rail here at prices as low as $0,25.

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