decoder install - lighting question

decoder install - lighting question

Post by Kent Ashto » Sun, 09 Jan 2000 04:00:00



I'm in the process of decoderizing a Proto2000 SW9/1200, and I have a
question (or 2) using a Digitrax DH121.

- The P2K manual suggests removing the weight over the front truck to
make room for the decoder, so I did that and screwed a piece of
styrene in it's place to keep the decoder and it's wires out of the
worm gear (and to keep gear lube off the decoder).  Has anyone figured
out a way of keeping the wires off the flywheel?

- The bulbs that come with P2K locos are 2 volt bulbs, but the decoder
puts out 12v. I'm experimenting with series voltage dropping
resistors, but they get pretty hot. I checked a couple of the hobby
shops, but the only 12v bulbs they have are 2-3 times bigger than the
stock P2K bulbs. Anyone got an elegant solution, or should I just go
with the resistor(s) and make sure they aren't in contact with any
plastic.

- The reverse light is buried in the roof of the cab, and uses contact
wipers mounted on the inside of the hood to contact the circuit board
when the loco is assembled. I removed that board, and all the wiring
to it for the decoder installation. I thought about running wires, but
they get in the way as they bunch up under the hood as I re-assemble
the loco. Any ideas?

I'm sure I could come up with something eventually, but I figure
someone has done this before, and can help to shorten my learning
curve.

Thanks folks;

Kent

--
Kent Ashton

Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
www.pangea.ca/~kashton     members.xoom.com/renegade_MRC

 
 
 

decoder install - lighting question

Post by William W. Rook » Mon, 10 Jan 2000 04:00:00


Model Power makes some very small 14 volt bulbs that are very useful
with decoders. I have them in several engines.  They are not much larger
than the the very small 1.5-2.0 volt buls and much brighter.

Bill

--
AMTRAK - The ONLY way to fly!

 
 
 

decoder install - lighting question

Post by Birk Binnar » Mon, 10 Jan 2000 04:00:00


This is no help to you, but FYI the new Athearn Genesis locos also have
those same 2 volt bulbs.  Since the instruction sheet that comes with the
loco makes no mention of this, and since the Genesis series is advertised as
"DCC Ready" I figured all I had to do was install the decoder, hook up the
wires, and run.

Wrong.  The decoder blew every one of the bulbs, and since the bulbs appear
to be molded into the loco shell there's no obvious way to remove/replace
them.

I sent a pretty strong e-mail to Athearn about this, but so far have got no
response.
--------
Birk Binnard
Peninsula Software/HOHoist website
http://www.birkbinnard.com/hohoist

 
 
 

decoder install - lighting question

Post by Alan Arth » Mon, 10 Jan 2000 04:00:00


Radio Shack #272-1092C is a pair of 12 V. 60 mA bulbs with bare steel
wires which I've been using for some time for headlights. They fit into
a 1/8 aluminum tube to absorb heat which fits many headlight openings.
They are pretty bright and look good even at 9-10 volts. They claim a
10,000 hr. life. I think the price is $1.49.
 
 
 

decoder install - lighting question

Post by Mike Willega » Tue, 11 Jan 2000 04:00:00


Hi Kent,

        My web site has a description of a p2K SW9/1200 decoder
installation, along with a short writeup on choosing
dropping resistors.

Perhaps it will help you.

http://home.att.net/~mike.webpage/Railroad/Railroad-first_page.htm

Regards,
Mike Willegal

P.S. though it runs hot, the dropping resistor I used
hasn't melted anything or failed - yet.

Quote:

> I'm in the process of decoderizing a Proto2000 SW9/1200, and I have a
> question (or 2) using a Digitrax DH121.

> - The P2K manual suggests removing the weight over the front truck to
> make room for the decoder, so I did that and screwed a piece of
> styrene in it's place to keep the decoder and it's wires out of the
> worm gear (and to keep gear lube off the decoder).  Has anyone figured
> out a way of keeping the wires off the flywheel?

> - The bulbs that come with P2K locos are 2 volt bulbs, but the decoder
> puts out 12v. I'm experimenting with series voltage dropping
> resistors, but they get pretty hot. I checked a couple of the hobby
> shops, but the only 12v bulbs they have are 2-3 times bigger than the
> stock P2K bulbs. Anyone got an elegant solution, or should I just go
> with the resistor(s) and make sure they aren't in contact with any
> plastic.

> - The reverse light is buried in the roof of the cab, and uses contact
> wipers mounted on the inside of the hood to contact the circuit board
> when the loco is assembled. I removed that board, and all the wiring
> to it for the decoder installation. I thought about running wires, but
> they get in the way as they bunch up under the hood as I re-assemble
> the loco. Any ideas?

> I'm sure I could come up with something eventually, but I figure
> someone has done this before, and can help to shorten my learning
> curve.

> Thanks folks;

> Kent

> --
> Kent Ashton

> Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
> www.pangea.ca/~kashton     members.xoom.com/renegade_MRC