> > I read an article "Using Foamboard Raodbed" by Eric Lindburg in the June
> > 1992 issue of Railroad Model Craftsman. Although the title advocates
> > foamboad, it also discussed using hot melt glue to secure handlayed rail
>> > to ties...even for switches!
> I dunno, but I've seen too many hot glue jobs on other things such
> as lumber loads that haven't held up to heat and humidity
> variations (very important when ya lives in Michigan!) for more than a
> few months. Maybe they just didn't get the glue hot enough?
> Many years back, my brother and I tried the similar method that uses
> Pliobond or Goo. The rail didn't stay in place very well over a several
> month trial period.
I've used glue to hand-lay track with great success. It's held up very
well to rough moves, storage and wide temperate swings. Here are a few
1) Attach wiring to the rail before placing it. I like to solder
a wire to the bottom of each rail.
2) Prebend the rail. Don't depend on the glue to hold the rail to
a particular shape.
3) Apply a liberal coat of glue (I use Pliobond) and let it dry
completely before placing it on the ties.
4) Finally, hold the rail in place using your favorite 3-point
track gauge while _quickly_ touching the rail with a hot
solder iron. It's takes a bit of practice, but you want to
just soften/melt the glue - not burn it off.
That's it. It make fast work of hand-laid trackwork and the results
are very nice to look at as there are no GIANT track spikes in every
Note: I'm assuming we're talking about HO or N scale here. If you're
using a larger scale you can get spikes that have heads which are the
correct size and will be noticably absent if ommitted. So, for O scale
and larger (not sure about S) you should probably use 4 spikes per tie.
| | Mike Davison
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