I use as similar technique. I solder the small brass angle-tabs to the
inside of the point rails, and clearance drill the base of each for a
00-90 screw. I then drill and tap the 'double-sided' PC board tiebar for
the 00-90 screws (separation is critical). The brass 00-90 screws are
threaded through the tiebar and soldered on the backside (lower foil).
Both front and back tiebar foils must be cut to avoid shorting. The
result is a small hinge at each point rail. Obviously, this is best done
with the rails upside down. It COULD be done through a hole in the
underside of the roadbed beneath the tiebar ... I wouldn't want to do that.
If maintenance is needed, one wingrail would need to be removed (no big
deal), so the point rails and tiebar could be taken out as a unit. This
is NOT a big problem. We have eight such switches (#16's) on the local
group's modular layout. In over fif*** years of heavy service not one
> I'd tend to want to put small tabs on each point rail and the tab has a
> 00-90 clearance hole in it. This allows for the soldering with the point
> rail up in the air and also allows the points to be loose to a degree which
> reduces the need of the switchmotor and linkage to force the points to one
> side or the other. You also can fully strip the copper off of the throwbar
> so there is no problem at all with shorting.
> The screws are easily held in firmly by the tie and you can also do a
> slightly larger tap hole and just selftap the***in if you are paranoid
> about the screws coming loose.
> Bob May
> Why is there an Ozone Hole at the South Pole but Not at the North Pole?
> Somebody's been lying to you!