There is a chucking situation where I can not use the Stronghold chuck
because of the key design.
Most of the time, when I get ready to "finish turn" a rough turned bowl, I
will chuck the bowl by the tenon on the bottom and after I get it situated
on the chuck so that I can get a round bowl with sufficient wall thickness,
I turn a short 2.5" dia tenon on the inside of the bowl.
I rechuck on the new tenon and turn the outside of the bowl down to the orig
tenon and I clean up that original tenon on the bottom and make it perfectly
I do this because I learned how to make my outside shapes this way. (I can
turn the outside shape with the bottom tenon being in the chuck at the
headstock, but I like it as I described)
Why can't you use the Stronghold chuck, you ask?
If the bowl is shallow and if the rim does not cover the keyhole, I can do
But, if the bowl is deep enough that the rim covers the keyhole, I am out of
With the chucks that use tommy bars if the rim gets in the way, I use a
'right angle' allen wrench to tighten the chuck.
If the rim diameter is too small and there is no clearance, I just grin and
put the outside bottom tenon in the chuck and turn it....
And, as Kevin states, the tommy bars have never let me down because of
insufficient tightening power.
I have a 28" diameter bowl that I turned with my Nova Chuck. It did not
come loose nor did I perceive that it might, and I checked it often.
AND, if you did a time study with a production turner, you might find "just
how much faster" using the tommy can be contrasted to the chuck that
requires a key to close the jaws.
This was pointed out to me in 1997 in Provo by Richard Raffan, no less, when
I was ogling the various chucks at the Craft Supplies showroom.
I like my Stronghold chuck and I like my Nova Chucks too.
Ridgefield, Wa USA (10 miles north of Portland, Ore)
> > > How much better are the gear chucks?
> > All the demos I have seen where a chuck requiring 2 levers is used
> > the user usually goes medieval on the levers to make sure he gets a
> > good grip on the piece (especially when the levers are quite short).
> > I have a supernova and it is very easy for me crush the piece if I put
> > too much pressure on the key. That tells me that it is much easier to
> > get a strong grip with a gear chuck than with a scroll chuck.
> > On the Supernova: I like mine although I don't care much for the key.
> > the articulated tip it feels fragile and it is sometimes a bit hard to
> > the right position for the ket to grip. Mine also has a little play
> > in one of the jaw.
> > If I was in the market again I would definitely look into that smaller
> > version of the Stronghold that people have been talking about recently.
> > (I have a minilathe so the Stronghold is overkill.)
> > bruno.
> I've seen that too Bruno, but I've always thought it was maybe just
> some theatrics on the demonstrator's part. I have a Oneway 4-jaw with
> the tommy bars, and I give it a good snuggin' but I don't come close to
> reefing on the sucker like some of these guys to. I find it quite easy
> to crush the fibers too but if I use a little discretion and don't
> tighten too hard I've no problem. I believe the keyed chucks do have
> a more robust tightening ratio, but there's no reason to honk on the
> bars the way some folks seem to want to do.
> There is a difference in the way Stronghold jaws hold and the Nova
> jaws. With the Nova, one has to get the tenon close to the optimal
> diameter for a given set of jaws, to insure maximum wood to metal
> Because of their shape, the Oneway jaws grip better over a wider range.
> At least that's the sales pitch, and in my experience it's borne out...
> Kevin & Theresa Miller