I'll put my notes within
Bruce and all:
> Got a few questions for the group:
> 1). What are the consequences of running a Powertwist link belt
> backwards? I want to reverse my lathe occasionally for sanding.
I use a link belt saved tearing down the spindle to replace a 50
year old lathe.
The belt I use should run backwards - just try it out.
> 2). Does anyone have a good way of loosening a stuck #2 Morse Taper
> without destroying the headstock bearings by beating it out with a brass
> drift and hammer? Channelocks or a pipe wrench always work as a last
> resort, but I really hate to scar the metal. (And I don't have a license
> for blasting powder:>).
head to lightly tap from behind. Usually the mass/momentium of the bolt will
push out the spur into pinching fingers (don't want to get speared!).
How about those strap wrenches used on plated (e.g. gold) pipes - the strap is
wrapped and then attached - the wrench pulls an tightens providing grip.
> 3). And a good way to loosen a small faceplate without using Channelocks
> or pipe wrench? Been using a brass drift at the***holes, not always
> successfully, and again, I hate to beat up the bearings.
Or finish sealing.
One trick is to put a DOG mounted on the faceplate - or otherwise a bolt...
Then rotate it so it bumps into a wood bar that is mounted (held) on the
Many faceplates have flats on them - Use a cresent wrench. - Grip the belt sides
that is both lengths of the belt (one that would go over the other under the
to lock the spindle. - Use this grip to rotate the spindle into the wood bar.
Another way is to mount (using the***holes) a lever arm - and rap the end
with a mallet - sharp blow will be good even if you can't lock the spindle.
> The lathe is a 60's vintage Atlas.
but you have a back gear to lock, but that is risky on the pin -
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