Advice please

Advice please

Post by Martin H. Eastbur » Sun, 21 Dec 1997 04:00:00



I'll put my notes within
Bruce and all:

Quote:

> Got a few questions for the group:

> 1). What are the consequences of running a Powertwist link belt
> backwards?  I want to reverse my lathe occasionally for sanding.

I don't know what Powertwist link belt is - is it red ? -
I use a link belt saved tearing down the spindle to replace a 50
year old lathe.

The belt I use should run backwards - just try it out.

Quote:

> 2). Does anyone have a good way of loosening a stuck #2 Morse Taper
> without destroying the headstock bearings by beating it out with a brass
> drift and hammer?  Channelocks or a pipe wrench always work as a last
> resort, but I really hate to scar the metal. (And I don't have a license
> for blasting powder:>).

Does your spindle have a 'hole through' ? - I use a long carrage bolt through
head to lightly tap from behind.  Usually the mass/momentium of the bolt will
push out the spur into pinching fingers (don't want to get speared!).
If not:
How about those strap wrenches used on plated (e.g. gold) pipes - the strap is
wrapped and then attached - the wrench pulls an tightens providing grip.

Quote:

> 3). And a good way to loosen a small faceplate without using Channelocks
> or pipe wrench? Been using a brass drift at the***holes, not always
> successfully, and again, I hate to beat up the bearings.

How about a washer. - Nylon washers have been used to prevent max adheasion.
Or finish sealing.

One trick is to put a DOG mounted on the faceplate - or otherwise a bolt...
Then rotate it so it bumps into a wood bar that is mounted (held) on the
bench/...

Many faceplates have flats on them - Use a cresent wrench. - Grip the belt sides
-
that is both lengths of the belt (one that would go over the other under the
spindle)
to lock the spindle. - Use this grip to rotate the spindle into the wood bar.

Another way is to mount (using the***holes) a lever arm - and rap the end
with a mallet - sharp blow will be good even if you can't lock the spindle.

Quote:

> The lathe is a 60's vintage Atlas.

Atlas - wood only - or metal/wood ? - if metal - the prior idea might be
toughter -
but you have a back gear to lock, but that is risky on the pin -

Quote:

> Thanks,

> Bruce

Good luck -
Martin
--
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder

 
 
 

Advice please

Post by Bruce Sanbor » Mon, 22 Dec 1997 04:00:00


Got a few questions for the group:

1). What are the consequences of running a Powertwist link belt
backwards?  I want to reverse my lathe occasionally for sanding.

2). Does anyone have a good way of loosening a stuck #2 Morse Taper
without destroying the headstock bearings by beating it out with a brass
drift and hammer?  Channelocks or a pipe wrench always work as a last
resort, but I really hate to scar the metal. (And I don't have a license
for blasting powder:>).

3). And a good way to loosen a small faceplate without using Channelocks
or pipe wrench? Been using a brass drift at the***holes, not always
successfully, and again, I hate to beat up the bearings.

The lathe is a 60's vintage Atlas.  

Thanks,

Bruce

 
 
 

Advice please

Post by Fred Holde » Mon, 22 Dec 1997 04:00:00



Quote:

>Got a few questions for the group:

>1). What are the consequences of running a Powertwist link belt
>backwards?  I want to reverse my lathe occasionally for sanding.

>2). Does anyone have a good way of loosening a stuck #2 Morse Taper
>without destroying the headstock bearings by beating it out with a brass
>drift and hammer?  Channelocks or a pipe wrench always work as a last
>resort, but I really hate to scar the metal. (And I don't have a license
>for blasting powder:>).

>3). And a good way to loosen a small faceplate without using Channelocks
>or pipe wrench? Been using a brass drift at the***holes, not always
>successfully, and again, I hate to beat up the bearings.

>The lathe is a 60's vintage Atlas.  

>Thanks,

>Bruce

Bruce,

I don't think the Powertwist link belt, if its the one I'm using on my bandsaw,
cares which way it runs as long as it is tight it is little different from a
regular v-belt.

When I first started turning, I read somewhere and I don't remember where, to
make up a rod with a wooden handle. I took a piece of 3/8" mild steel a little
longer than by headstock spindle and turned a nice wooden handle for it. A
little Yellow Lable Hot Stuff in the hole and its worked for years. You insert
it in the outboard end of the spindle and sort of push/throw it into the spindle
hole. A couple of raps will generally dislodge the Morse Taper. If not a gentle
rap with a mallet generally accomplishs the task. Doesn't work on my CL-3 or
RPML-300 because they aren't through spindles.

I read years ago to make a plywood disk and mount behind you faceplate and I've
used that at times, but lately, I've been using a piece of soft leather cut into
a washer to fit over the spindle nose. This bit of cushion seems to keep the
faceplate or chuck from siezing up like metal to metal will often do. I haven't
used it, but I suspect that a fiber washer would also work.

Fred Holder
<http://www.FoundCollection.com/;

 
 
 

Advice please

Post by Graham Fel » Mon, 22 Dec 1997 04:00:00


Try a WD40 type spray on the 3) threads - leave for an hour or so - and it
then needs one or two very sharp blows in the right place and the right (?)
direction. It's the short sharp blow that will release the threads and not
a terrific amount of force.
AFTERWARDS always use the WD40 typoe spray on all MT shanks and threads.
Keep taper shanks clear of burrs - same with the spindle.
Graham Fell



Quote:
> Got a few questions for the group:

> 1). What are the consequences of running a Powertwist link belt
> backwards?  I want to reverse my lathe occasionally for sanding.

> 2). Does anyone have a good way of loosening a stuck #2 Morse Taper
> without destroying the headstock bearings by beating it out with a brass
> drift and hammer?  Channelocks or a pipe wrench always work as a last
> resort, but I really hate to scar the metal. (And I don't have a license
> for blasting powder:>).

> 3). And a good way to loosen a small faceplate without using Channelocks
> or pipe wrench? Been using a brass drift at the***holes, not always
> successfully, and again, I hate to beat up the bearings.

> The lathe is a 60's vintage Atlas.  

> Thanks,

> Bruce

 
 
 

Advice please

Post by Jo » Mon, 22 Dec 1997 04:00:00




Quote:
>> 3). And a good way to loosen a small faceplate without using Channelocks
>> or pipe wrench? Been using a brass drift at the***holes, not always
>> successfully, and again, I hate to beat up the bearings.

>How about a washer. - Nylon washers have been used to prevent max adheasion.
>Or finish sealing.

Washers made from brown (parcel) paper are useFUL FOR THIS>
--
Charles (Joe) Stahelin
Huddersfield, West Yorkshire, UK
 
 
 

Advice please

Post by Michael Roegn » Tue, 23 Dec 1997 04:00:00


Bruce -
        Try a bit of a penetrating oil on the threads and the shoulder
of the spindle - this will help loosen the binding.    For faceplates
and chucks, order one of the nylon washers from Craft Supplies to fit
your lathe.  They don't bind up, and seem to last quite a long time.
The one on my Woodfast is used daily, and is almost 10 years old.
They're cheap, too.

        As for the Morse Taper, the first step is to clean it
thoroughly.  There are a number of companies (WoodCraft, Craft
Supplies, etc.) that are now selling a plastic reamer to clean the
taper out.  Make sure that there are no rust spots or debris in the
taper, then oil it with a light mineral oil.  Do the same for the
drive you fit into the taper.  In order to take the taper out, a lot
depends on the type of lathe you have.  Most large lathes have a
through-bored spindle, thus allowing a drift to be inserted from the
rear and the drive "tapped" out with a few light blows.  If you don't
have the through-bored spindle, then make yourself an extractor, which
consists of a nut (sized to fit the spindle thread and size) with a
fender washer welded on top of it and the hole in the washer sized to
let the shaft of the drive center through but not the drive end.
Simply put the remover on the spindle prior to inserting the drive
center and then use a locked spindle and a wrench to ease the center
loose when you're done.

        A link belt will work just fine in reverse unless the tension
on the belt is adjusted WAY too light for safety.  I'd avoid really
high speeds in reverse, as well.

                                Michael



Quote:
>Got a few questions for the group:

>1). What are the consequences of running a Powertwist link belt
>backwards?  I want to reverse my lathe occasionally for sanding.

>2). Does anyone have a good way of loosening a stuck #2 Morse Taper
>without destroying the headstock bearings by beating it out with a brass
>drift and hammer?  Channelocks or a pipe wrench always work as a last
>resort, but I really hate to scar the metal. (And I don't have a license
>for blasting powder:>).

>3). And a good way to loosen a small faceplate without using Channelocks
>or pipe wrench? Been using a brass drift at the***holes, not always
>successfully, and again, I hate to beat up the bearings.

>The lathe is a 60's vintage Atlas.  

>Thanks,

>Bruce

 
 
 

Advice please

Post by DSIFE » Tue, 23 Dec 1997 04:00:00


fiber or plastic washers work very well.
Dave