I have never noticed that wet wood dulls tools faster than dry wood. I
turn green wood almost exclusivly, but notice a big difference in
dulling turning tools when I do the occasional dry piece. When cutting
green wood on the bandsaw, I think green wood cuts with less
resistance, as long as you have a sharp blade with the proper tooth
set and gap. Dry wood cuts more slowly, but will cut better with a
different tooth set than my usual resawing blades.
The biggest difference in dulling seems to be the woods. The prettiest
myrtle wood comes from the Oregon and north California coast. It can
dull the tools more quickly than other woods. My theory on that is
that it has a higher silica content than most other woods because
growing on the coast, it sucks up a lot of micro particles of silica/
I have noticed that the walnuts (English, Black, and Butternut) seem
to dull the tools rather quickly for woods that aren't that dense. I
have suspected that since they are acidic in nature, that the acid
could be the culprit, like George said. I suppose Oak will do the same
thing, but I almost never turn oak.
Density of the wood does contribute, and I haven't realy noticed that
bark contributes, if it is clean. If it has been laying on the ground,
then it picks up grit.
With the different grades of steel, I have noticed little difference
in the time that any steel will hold the 'fresh off the grinder' edge.
The harder steels will hold the 'I can still hog off a lot more
material' edge than the M2 does.
All of this is theoretical, just observations that I have made.
> >Anyone have opinions about why green wood dulls gouges (M2, M4, and Kryo M2)
> >and band saw blades so fast relative to the same wood dry? One would think
> >that the water would cool and lubricate the cut versus dry wood, but still
> >it appears as if tools dull much faster. I work mostly with English Walnut,
> >"Black" Walnut root burl and Western Maple. Perhaps having a scary-sharp
> >edge is just more critical to sever the wet fibers...I don't know. Do you?
> >This group has never been short of people with opinions (albeit some more
> >reasoned than others) so I thought I'd ask to see if anyone has a reasonable
> What kind of green wood are you turning?
> Bark on or off?
> In my experience, most green woods are easier on the tool edge than dry wood..
> As to the bark, it would seem that if there IS a difference, wet would be easier
> on the tool if there is sand, etc. in the bark, as it wouldn't be as "set" in
> the bark?
> My first 2 tools when turning green wood with bark on are the stud finder and a
> 2" roughing gouge..
> You sort of want to avoid nails, barbed wire and assorted stuff that is often in
> branch or trunk wood... It's a "no drama, no trauma" kind of thing.....
> A few years ago, I bought the Benjamin's best 3 piece bowl gouge set from PSI
> and it came with a 2" gouge that looks like a huge dog food scoop...
> About the only thing I use the monster for is taking bark off stuff because it's
> big, heavy and ugly and I don't care if I hurt it..
> Please remove splinters before emailing