need advice on mounting blanks.

need advice on mounting blanks.

Post by Scott A. Luznia » Thu, 11 Jun 1998 04:00:00



Hi all... Im a new wood turner and have turned a few bowls and such.
but now I want to start using some more *** woods but alas they are
pricey.  the question I have is what is the best way to mount the blank
on the faceplate with the least amount of waste?  how I currently mount
some blocks of pine and wood that I have scraps of I normally end up
with about an inch and 1/4 wasted.  How long do the screws have to go
into the blank to hold is safely preferably without use of the
tailstock? OH and one last thing any recomendations on what *** woods
turn well and have a unique look about them?

Thanks to all,
Scott Luzniak

 
 
 

need advice on mounting blanks.

Post by John McGa » Thu, 11 Jun 1998 04:00:00


Scott,

Warning: long-winded reply follows...

Everybody who has had to pay for *** wood blanks shares your concerns.
There are numerous ways of mounting and remounting but the simplest one is
to mount the "top" side of the blank to the headstock using a faceplate or
***chuck. Since the insides of the bowl are going to be removed, you can
mount as firmly as you want and use as many screws as you think you need
(keeping them short enough to stay within the waste portion of course).
After mounting you turn the outside of the bowl to the desired shape. Sand
the outside now. At the foot of the bowl you leave it so that 1. you can
grab the foot with your chuck in such a way as not to mar it (easy with a
Nova, impossible with a Oneway because of the teeth) or 2. there is a
recess in the bottom of the foot that the chuck can expand into or 3. that
the bottom of the foot is perfectly flat and upon this flat you will glue a
piece of 3/4" or 4/4" maple or other dense wood.

Option 3 is good if you don't have a jaw chuck since you can use a
faceplate or***chuck on it. While you are glueing the block on, run
your tailstock up with a center in it an use it as a clamp. The center's
point will mark the dead center of the block. After the glue is dry, you
can trim the block to be concentric and mount a faceplate or drill it for a
***center.

In all three methods you will now re-mount the bowl by the foot and hollow
out the inside and sand it. Now comes the hard part for most people,
finishing the foot perfectly. If you have used option 1 and the chuck
didn't slip too much, you are finished. If you used option 2 you can leave
the recess as it is (not too attractive in my estimation) or remount the
bowl by the rim using a chuck with huge jaws or by using a jam chuck. Then
you _very_ gently finish the foot to remove the recess. If you used option
3 you can do the same as with option 2 and turn the maple block away or you
can simply take a handsaw and cut if off and then sand the bottom. I advise
against this because flat bottoms are ugly and sometimes make the bowl
rock. Best that you re-mount the bowl and turn the foot to a good finish.

These are the methods I have found the easiest and used the most often.
There are probably a dozen different ways and variations that others use.
In any case the idea is to get the finish perfect everywhere with the
minimum number of steps.

John McGaw
Knoxville, TN



Quote:
> Hi all... Im a new wood turner and have turned a few bowls and such.
> but now I want to start using some more *** woods but alas they are
> pricey.  the question I have is what is the best way to mount the blank
> on the faceplate with the least amount of waste?  how I currently mount
> some blocks of pine and wood that I have scraps of I normally end up
> with about an inch and 1/4 wasted.  How long do the screws have to go
> into the blank to hold is safely preferably without use of the
> tailstock? OH and one last thing any recomendations on what *** woods
> turn well and have a unique look about them?

> Thanks to all,
> Scott Luzniak



 
 
 

need advice on mounting blanks.

Post by Rpturn » Fri, 12 Jun 1998 04:00:00


Hi Scott,

A lot of answers are possible but they depend upon whether you are still having
lots of catches and whether you can grind a satisfactory bevel.  When those
things are no longer an issue, you can even resort to 2 faced tape for up to 8"
bowls, if you clamp the things together for 10 minutes.  Don't stand in the
throw area at any time.  Get a good tape from one of our turning suppliers, not
the cheap stuff from most carpet places or hardware stores

A lot of people have cautioned against using pine for glue blocks.  A lot more
will suggest you not inhale the dust from ***s nor allow it to set long upon
your skin.  Same for spalted wood.

If you glueing with CA and are getting good results, then the screws need only
securely hold the mounting block - don't have to penetrate the blank at all.

Be careful. Some advice you read  results in a launching against the head's
surface.

Have fun!
Richard Preston

WoodTurners Anonymous of Richmond, Va

 
 
 

need advice on mounting blanks.

Post by Ron Web » Fri, 12 Jun 1998 04:00:00


I have quite successfully mounted blanks to a faceplate using double sided
tape covering the whole surface. After mounting the blank, I moved the tail
stock up to the blank while making the first few cuts to get things round
and balanced. After that I moved the tail stock back and proceeded with the
turning.

Ron Webb
Ottawa, Ontario,
Canada

Quote:

>Hi all... Im a new wood turner and have turned a few bowls and such.
>but now I want to start using some more *** woods but alas they are
>pricey.  the question I have is what is the best way to mount the blank
>on the faceplate with the least amount of waste?  how I currently mount
>some blocks of pine and wood that I have scraps of I normally end up
>with about an inch and 1/4 wasted.  How long do the screws have to go
>into the blank to hold is safely preferably without use of the
>tailstock? OH and one last thing any recomendations on what *** woods
>turn well and have a unique look about them?

>Thanks to all,
>Scott Luzniak


 
 
 

need advice on mounting blanks.

Post by Darrell Feltmat » Sat, 13 Jun 1998 04:00:00


I like to mount a bowl blank from the top side to the faceplate with screws
and turn it round and to shape. Then I bring up a wood face plate from the
tail stock and glue it to the bowl base with CA glue, using the tail stock
as  a clamp for pressure. Next I remove the bowl from the lathe, take off
the first faceplate and mount using the wooden plate. Then I turn the inside
of the bowl.
This is using wet wood and I generally turn to about an inch thick, seal,
and let dry for three or four months or until I have time to turn the
finished product. Then I hot glue the wood plate to the bottom of the bowl
and finish turn it.
A couple of nights ago I turned an 11 inch by 4 in chunk of poplar so wet I
was soaked using this method. It is simple and cheap.

Good turning and God bless
Darrell

 
 
 

need advice on mounting blanks.

Post by View » Sun, 16 Aug 1998 04:00:00


On Wed, 10 Jun 1998 16:06:51 -0400, "Scott A. Luzniak"

Quote:

>Hi all... Im a new wood turner and have turned a few bowls and such.
>but now I want to start using some more *** woods but alas they are
>pricey.  the question I have is what is the best way to mount the blank
>on the faceplate with the least amount of waste?  how I currently mount
>some blocks of pine and wood that I have scraps of I normally end up
>with about an inch and 1/4 wasted.  How long do the screws have to go
>into the blank to hold is safely preferably without use of the
>tailstock? OH and one last thing any recomendations on what *** woods
>turn well and have a unique look about them?

>Thanks to all,
>Scott Luzniak


Lots of answers to this post, all the way around.

If you are good with your tools, you might consider a dovetail recess
in the bottom for an expanding chuck.  Use a***center on the top
of the bowl first.

Also, glue a 1/2" thick waste block to your expensive ***, and
clamp/screw/grip to that.

Lastly, many of the ***s are great looking!  How to pick one?  By
the same token many of our N. American domestics rival, easily, the
***s for beauty.  If you want something "exciting", try finding
some highly figured Maple, or Burls, or crotch cuts.  Root nodes, or
vines that have had trees grow AROUND them (embedded).

 
 
 

need advice on mounting blanks.

Post by John Paul Sanbor » Mon, 17 Aug 1998 04:00:00


How about stumo wood or something that was growing in a fence....