Delta DL40 electronic problem

Delta DL40 electronic problem

Post by MGH » Wed, 25 Apr 2007 08:41:13



Group,

Need help/advise. I am a high school shop teacher.  We have a Delta DL40 16"electronic
variable wood lathe.  It quit working the other day.  I replaced the power
cord, it had more electrical tape than plastic.  The cord was replaced with
a lighter gage wire than original (I know mistake).

The lathe and electronics all worked, as it should.  After a short period of
use the lathe shut down.  I noticed the cord had gotten warm and the lathe
would not restart.  I replaced the cord with an appropriate gage wire,
checked the F1 fuse it's good, F2 and F3 fuses soldered to the circuit board
also look good.  When the red on/off button is pulled to the ON position a
relay on the circuit board clicks but no LED readout lights on the
microprocessor control panel.  I moved the microprocessor control panel to
the alternative location with the same results.  We have a second identical
lathe and replaced the microprocessor control panel on the working lathe and
the panel worked fine. Did I fry the electronics by having a to light gage
wire?  I looked for a thermal overload button on the motor but haven't found
any.  Besides the motor never got warm much less hot.  Also, there was never
that hot electrical smell.  Any suggestions would be helpful and
appreciated.

Gay

 
 
 

Delta DL40 electronic problem

Post by Fred Holde » Wed, 25 Apr 2007 09:38:13


Hello Gay,

I would suggest that you contact Delta with the same explaniation.
They should be able to guide you to  a fix. It is quite possible that
the relay that clicks when the switch is pulled to the on position is
faulty and may have been the problem in the first place rather than
the old power cord. Apparently, it applies power to the system. If a
contact has broken, the relay could activate but not connect power.

The manufacturer would be your best bet.

Fred Holder
<http://www.fholder.com>


Quote:
> Group,

> Need help/advise. I am a high school shop teacher.  We have a Delta DL40 16"electronic
> variable wood lathe.  It quit working the other day.  I replaced the power
> cord, it had more electrical tape than plastic.  The cord was replaced with
> a lighter gage wire than original (I know mistake).

> The lathe and electronics all worked, as it should.  After a short period of
> use the lathe shut down.  I noticed the cord had gotten warm and the lathe
> would not restart.  I replaced the cord with an appropriate gage wire,
> checked the F1 fuse it's good, F2 and F3 fuses soldered to the circuit board
> also look good.  When the red on/off button is pulled to the ON position a
> relay on the circuit board clicks but no LED readout lights on the
> microprocessor control panel.  I moved the microprocessor control panel to
> the alternative location with the same results.  We have a second identical
> lathe and replaced the microprocessor control panel on the working lathe and
> the panel worked fine. Did I fry the electronics by having a to light gage
> wire?  I looked for a thermal overload button on the motor but haven't found
> any.  Besides the motor never got warm much less hot.  Also, there was never
> that hot electrical smell.  Any suggestions would be helpful and
> appreciated.

> Gay


 
 
 

Delta DL40 electronic problem

Post by Georg » Wed, 25 Apr 2007 19:54:15



Quote:
> Hello Gay,

> I would suggest that you contact Delta with the same explaniation.
> They should be able to guide you to  a fix. It is quite possible that
> the relay that clicks when the switch is pulled to the on position is
> faulty and may have been the problem in the first place rather than
> the old power cord. Apparently, it applies power to the system. If a
> contact has broken, the relay could activate but not connect power.

> The manufacturer would be your best bet.

> Fred Holder

What Fred said.  You're really in the remove/replace game with modern
boards.  Not worth the time and equipment required to repair them.  Shake
and sniff troubleshooting is a thing of the past.

From experience in IA,  I suggest BX armor for future floor or wall wiring.
Or drops, but no locking plugs if you use 'em..