>> How about a discussion of sanding the inside of natural edge bowls? I
>> sand, (on the lathe with the lathe turning) but sanding the inside of a
>> natural edge bowl is like trying to take a pork chop away from a hungry
>> Especially those from burl that look like a buzz saw.
>> Anyone have any good techniques?
>I turn wearing a weightlifter's glove. That has the added advantage of
>shielding my hand from the "teeth". Sometimes I wear a work glove over
>the weightlifter's glove for added protection.
> Dick Wexelblat
HI Jim you don't have to become a camacazy to sand natural edge bowls the
proccess is fairly gentle.
On the outside after turning use a 2" power sander with your bowl
stationary,it is best if you can devise some way of locking or jambing the
spindle as you gently sand all the uneven edges of the bowl.Just move and sand
one section at a time.By using this method you retain nice square edges and do
not get the rounded over, damaged look that results from sanding with lathe
running. The continuous wood part of bowl can be done with lathe running.
The grades of paper depend on the surface you are dealing with but 100 grit is
probable a good starting point and going through 200-400 with the power sander
and then finish rubbing buy hand with 600-1200. this sounds long winded, but
you will find that you are dealing directly with each rough spot rather than
sanding the whole bowl down to that level, and so it does not take as long and
you get a professional look.
While on the subject of power sanding insides of any bowl I have found that to
get the best continuous curve in the bottom, it is again best to stop the
lathe, and with sweeping strokes accross the centre line eliminate any trouble
spots by sanding crossing the line of the turning blemishes.It is close to
impossible to do this with the lathe running and you end up with a hollow or
hump in the centre.
Have a great day it's summer down here!!!