Drive center stuck

Drive center stuck

Post by Buddy Matlos » Thu, 21 Sep 2000 04:00:00



My son's Grizzly G8691 wood lathe has its MT2 drive center stuck in the
headstock. I've even tried whacking the knockout bar with a maul, and I'm
afraid to apply any more force.

Any tricks to freeing these bastuhds up?

TIA,
Buddy

 
 
 

Drive center stuck

Post by John Luca » Thu, 21 Sep 2000 04:00:00


Buddy
   I can't guarantee this but try heating the spindle and tapping on the
MT2 with the knock out bar.  You'll have to heat it quickly because the
drive center will try to heat and expand at the same time.  Don't heat
if very hot for very long because you could damage the bearing.
    Maybe someone else will have a better solution.  John Lucas

 
 
 

Drive center stuck

Post by Bill Nobl » Thu, 21 Sep 2000 04:00:00


you can rig a puller for this purpose - in fact there is a
tool called a pittman arm puller that you can rent or buy from
an auto parts house that ought to be helpful here

Quote:
> My son's Grizzly G8691 wood lathe has its MT2 drive center
stuck in the
> headstock. I've even tried whacking the knockout bar with a
maul, and I'm
> afraid to apply any more force.

> Any tricks to freeing these bastuhds up?

> TIA,
> Buddy

 
 
 

Drive center stuck

Post by Michele n Mathew Ashto » Fri, 22 Sep 2000 04:00:00


WD40 and lots of it.  Sounds like some rust

Quote:
> My son's Grizzly G8691 wood lathe has its MT2 drive center stuck in the
> headstock. I've even tried whacking the knockout bar with a maul, and I'm
> afraid to apply any more force.

> Any tricks to freeing these bastuhds up?

> TIA,
> Buddy

 
 
 

Drive center stuck

Post by Grusser » Fri, 22 Sep 2000 04:00:00


Try grabbing the drive center with a large pair of water-pump pliers, locking
the spindle, and twisting at the same time as you are whacking the knockout
bar. Don't be afraid to hit it as hard as necessary with a steel hammer. There
isn't anything there that will be damaged.

If it still doesnt come out, saturate the joint around the center with
penetrating oil, let it sit overnight, and try again.

If you ever get it out, cleanup and oil both tapers before using them again.

Russ Fairfield
Silverdale, WA

 
 
 

Drive center stuck

Post by James Barle » Fri, 22 Sep 2000 04:00:00


Quote:

> Try grabbing the drive center with a large pair of water-pump pliers, locking
> the spindle, and twisting at the same time as you are whacking the knockout
> bar. Don't be afraid to hit it as hard as necessary with a steel hammer. There
> isn't anything there that will be damaged.

Except, maybe the Spindle bearings!!!
 
 
 

Drive center stuck

Post by Paul Pari » Sat, 23 Sep 2000 13:33:26


Buddy,

I hate to say it, but I have this same model, too.  Grizzly lied to me when
I bought this thing and told me that a knockout bar was available.  As you
have found out, it is not.  There is no place to knockout the MT2 drive
center.

Bad design made worse by a company that won't help at all.  I put mine in a
storage shed until I donate it to a local charity.  I went ahead and bought
a Jet.

As to getting the thing out, I finally used some pipe clamps and pulled
while my wife hit the drive center with a soft *** mallet.  Finally came
out, and the spindle was not damaged.

Get rid of this thing.

Paul

Quote:
> My son's Grizzly G8691 wood lathe has its MT2 drive center stuck in the
> headstock. I've even tried whacking the knockout bar with a maul, and I'm
> afraid to apply any more force.

> Any tricks to freeing these bastuhds up?

> TIA,
> Buddy

 
 
 

Drive center stuck

Post by Buddy Matlos » Sat, 23 Sep 2000 04:00:00



Quote:
> Buddy,

> I hate to say it, but I have this same model, too.  Grizzly lied to me
when
> I bought this thing and told me that a knockout bar was available.  As you
> have found out, it is not.  There is no place to knockout the MT2 drive
> center.

That's the first thing I noticed. I drilled my own access hole in the rear
panel.

Quote:
> Bad design made worse by a company that won't help at all.  I put mine in
a
> storage shed until I donate it to a local charity.  I went ahead and
bought
> a Jet.

Exactly what my son has in mind.

Quote:
> As to getting the thing out, I finally used some pipe clamps and pulled
> while my wife hit the drive center with a soft *** mallet.  Finally
came
> out, and the spindle was not damaged.

> Get rid of this thing.

> Paul

Sounds like good advice. Thanks, Paul.

Buddy

 
 
 

Drive center stuck

Post by Fdmorris » Sun, 24 Sep 2000 12:21:08


Quote:



>> Buddy,

>> I hate to say it, but I have this same model, too.  Grizzly lied to me
>when
>> I bought this thing and told me that a knockout bar was available.  As you
>> have found out, it is not.  There is no place to knockout the MT2 drive
>> center.

>That's the first thing I noticed. I drilled my own access hole in the rear
>panel.

>> Bad design made worse by a company that won't help at all.  I put mine in
>a
>> storage shed until I donate it to a local charity.  I went ahead and
>bought
>> a Jet.

>Exactly what my son has in mind.

>> As to getting the thing out, I finally used some pipe clamps and pulled
>> while my wife hit the drive center with a soft *** mallet.  Finally
>came
>> out, and the spindle was not damaged.

Don't know this lathe, but if there is a thru hole in the spindle, then a
friction fitted M2 center can be driven out.
To add to what was stated previous in the thread, use 1. a steel headed hammer,
and 2. a steel knockout rod that is as close to the bore in the spindle as
possible (don't want the rod to bend).

Put your penetrating oil on; blow some in the back end of the spindle, too.

Have the inboard end of the spindle covered with a heavy cloth or such to
catch/hold the center when it exits.

Hit the bar with sharp, straight blows with the hammer.  Go slow, working up to
the heaftier shot.  Don't use a maul or *** hammer, or anything like that
that will give less percussion. A two or three pound hammer is not out of the
question.  It's a *** operation; that's the way it is.

Same method is used to remove a self-holding taper arbor from an old style
milling machine that has been tightened with a draw bar.  

Frank Morrison

[The alternative method, of course, is to set up some chatter on what your
turning, then the center comes walking right out when you don't want it to. ;)]

 
 
 

Drive center stuck

Post by alan.squire » Sun, 24 Sep 2000 04:00:00


An old trick with friction parts that are stuck and will not budge even
after liberal applications of pentrating oil is to warm the parts
gently. I have used a gas torch for this in the past, but a hot air
paint *** is better. Do not use a *** flame if you have used WD
40.

I was shown this trick many years ago and told to wait until the
penetrating oil started to bubble. While heating tap gently with a
hammer around the circumference.

There are possible dangers using this method, like having the bearings
dry out if you get it too hot, and I am sure there will be a storm of
protesting e-mails about the H&S aspects, but I have had to use this
trick on 2 or 3 occasions as a last resort.

The final choice is yours.

Alan

Quote:

> Buddy,

> I hate to say it, but I have this same model, too.  Grizzly lied to me when
> I bought this thing and told me that a knockout bar was available.  As you
> have found out, it is not.  There is no place to knockout the MT2 drive
> center.

> Bad design made worse by a company that won't help at all.  I put mine in a
> storage shed until I donate it to a local charity.  I went ahead and bought
> a Jet.

> As to getting the thing out, I finally used some pipe clamps and pulled
> while my wife hit the drive center with a soft *** mallet.  Finally came
> out, and the spindle was not damaged.

> Get rid of this thing.

> Paul


> > My son's Grizzly G8691 wood lathe has its MT2 drive center stuck in the
> > headstock. I've even tried whacking the knockout bar with a maul, and I'm
> > afraid to apply any more force.

> > Any tricks to freeing these bastuhds up?

> > TIA,
> > Buddy

 
 
 

Drive center stuck

Post by Dale Beckma » Sun, 24 Sep 2000 04:00:00


One thing that will work is to apply Dry Ice to the Morse taper and it
should pop out with a light tap, and you will not change the temper of the
spindle.

As a side note you can also use it to pull out small dents in car fenders
without damaging the paint by laying it right in the middle of the dent.

Dale Beckman

Quote:

> Buddy
>    I can't guarantee this but try heating the spindle and tapping on the
> MT2 with the knock out bar.  You'll have to heat it quickly because the
> drive center will try to heat and expand at the same time.  Don't heat
> if very hot for very long because you could damage the bearing.
>     Maybe someone else will have a better solution.  John Lucas