I've had the same experience, and shifted to using shellac on most
woods to cut they yellow color.
I use Zinzer's Seal coat which is 2# cut dewaxed blonde. I dilute it
about 2 shellac to 1 *** to get about a 1.5# cut.
I apply it with a folded shop paper towel. Two coats immediately, one
right after the other. Another can be added in a few hours unless
drying conditions are really bad. I hand sand lightly to get the fuzz
down, using 400 grit or as low as 240 grit if the fuzz is bad. One
more coat of shellac, and most things are done. Add an extra one if
needed for shine.
I hand buff with gray synthetic steel wool, and add a coat of
Renaissance wax, and buff.
Because shellac dries so fast, I do my finishing first thing when I
get to the shop, all dust has settled overnight. By the time I'm
ready to start making more dust, the finish is dry enuf not to trap
I tried mixing my shellac from flakes, but didn't see the advantage
and the price was steep.
> I have used mostly oil/wax finishes on my bowls: ?walnut oil,
> Mahoney's wax, Danish oil with Beall Buffing, mineral oil and beeswax,
> etc. ?When I apply these finishes too some light colored woods (light
> maples, box elder, ect.) or to the sapwood on apple or cherry
> sometimes I get a shade of yellow that I do not like.
> What are some other kinds of finishes that are easy to apply, food
> safe, easy for the customer to maintain and don't yellow white wood
> and sap wood?