How should I finish a red cedar bowl

How should I finish a red cedar bowl

Post by R2 » Tue, 15 Sep 2009 08:01:43



Good Day Folks

        I'm getting ready to finish a red cedar bowl. I usually have a
few rounds of sanding sealer on by this stage but when I applied the
first coat it was blotchy. I resanded to remove the blotchs but how
should I finish it. Varnish?? Danish oil? What would you suggest?

Regards,

RandyD

rdeforge at optonline dot net

 
 
 

How should I finish a red cedar bowl

Post by l.vander.. » Wed, 16 Sep 2009 02:51:54



Quote:
> Good Day Folks

> ? ? ? ? I'm getting ready to finish a red cedar bowl. I usually have a
> few rounds of sanding sealer on by this stage but when I applied the
> first coat it was blotchy. I resanded to remove the blotchs but how
> should I finish it. Varnish?? Danish oil? What would you suggest?

> Regards,

> RandyD

> rdeforge at optonline dot net

Randy I assume we are talking Juniper,  AKA eastern red
Cedar,................... and not not Thuja plicata AKA western red
Cedar
The oil in Juniper plays havoc with the oils you put on it, I wouldn't
use any oil on it, and it being a soft kind of wood, a not easily
fixed finish would be a pain if/when the soft wood would be dented and
the finish damaged.
I think either no finish or shellac would be your best bet,, you could
try a beeswax finish, yes soft but easily renewed.
Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

 
 
 

How should I finish a red cedar bowl

Post by Mike Pauls » Wed, 16 Sep 2009 23:18:14


You didn't say if this bowl is functional or purely decorative.  I think
cedar (juniper) is too soft for functional bowls, but if that is what you
are up to, any penetrating oil is your best bet.  It won't get shiny, but
you generally don't want surface build on functional pieces, anyway.  For
decorative pieces I have had consistent good results by sealing the wood
with a few coats of shellac.  You can put pretty much whatever you want on
top of that for your final finish.  My personal favorite on juniper is
spray can satin Deft.
    -mike paulson, fort collins, co


Quote:

>Good Day Folks

>    I'm getting ready to finish a red cedar bowl. I usually have a
>few rounds of sanding sealer on by this stage but when I applied the
>first coat it was blotchy. I resanded to remove the blotchs but how
>should I finish it. Varnish?? Danish oil? What would you suggest?

>Regards,

>RandyD

>rdeforge at optonline dot net

 
 
 

How should I finish a red cedar bowl

Post by sbnjhft » Thu, 17 Sep 2009 09:23:04


Quote:

> You didn't say if this bowl is functional or purely decorative.  I think
> cedar (juniper) is too soft for functional bowls, but if that is what you
> are up to, any penetrating oil is your best bet.  It won't get shiny, but
> you generally don't want surface build on functional pieces, anyway.  For
> decorative pieces I have had consistent good results by sealing the wood
> with a few coats of shellac.  You can put pretty much whatever you want on
> top of that for your final finish.  My personal favorite on juniper is
> spray can satin Deft.

I've read quite a few times not to use satin or flat finishes because
the flatting agents can block the look of the grain.  It's recommended
to use gloss and then steel wool it to the desired appearance.  I use
gloss for most of my projects so I don't know how the two methods
compare.  Can anyone comment?
 
 
 

How should I finish a red cedar bowl

Post by l.vander.. » Thu, 17 Sep 2009 10:24:02



Quote:

> > You didn't say if this bowl is functional or purely decorative. ?I think
> > cedar (juniper) is too soft for functional bowls, but if that is what you
> > are up to, any penetrating oil is your best bet. ?It won't get shiny, but
> > you generally don't want surface build on functional pieces, anyway. ?For
> > decorative pieces I have had consistent good results by sealing the wood
> > with a few coats of shellac. ?You can put pretty much whatever you want on
> > top of that for your final finish. ?My personal favorite on juniper is
> > spray can satin Deft.

> I've read quite a few times not to use satin or flat finishes because
> the flatting agents can block the look of the grain. ?It's recommended
> to use gloss and then steel wool it to the desired appearance. ?I use
> gloss for most of my projects so I don't know how the two methods
> compare. ?Can anyone comment?

My understanding is that glossy coatings has nothing in the finishing
material, and so makes for being able to look through the finish, even
scratching the surface doesn't take that away.
A satin finish has stuff in the finishing material so it looks dull,
this prevent you from looking through the finish and your ability to
see through the finish is taken away by the stuff in the finishing
material, clear as mud ;-))
 
 
 

How should I finish a red cedar bowl

Post by Mike Pauls » Tue, 22 Sep 2009 15:10:06


Don't knock it until you've tried it.  Satin lacquer (Deft) is a wonderful
finish.  I have used probably 100 cans of the stuff on turnings alone.  
It's durable, non-yellowing, easy to apply, quick drying, and easy to
repair if that is ever needed.  It doesn't hide the grain that I can tell,
it's just not as shiny as a gloss finish.  A gloss finish dulled by
abrading it with steel wool, sandpaper, or whatever, is a delicate finish
that can become blotchy when the micro-abrasions become clogged with skin
oil from handling, and wax will just make the piece more shiny all over.  
You can control the degree of gloss/satin effect by applying clear
undercoats of gloss lacquer or shellac if you wish, and you can apply wax
to the final finish without altering the satin appearance.  I rarely see
the need for waxing a lacquer finish on the kind of turnings I do, but
other kinds of things - guitars, etc. - often get waxed.  A finish should
be appropriate to the style of the turning, and not everything should be
glossy.  Natural, rustic, or organic styled turnings seem to me to be more
appropriately finished somewhere in the range of a dull to a satin sheen,
and satin lacquer is a great option to have in your repertoire of
finishing techniques.  I like it a lot.
       -mike paulson, fort collins, co
Quote:
>I've read quite a few times not to use satin or flat finishes because
>the flatting agents can block the look of the grain.  It's recommended
>to use gloss and then steel wool it to the desired appearance.  I use
>gloss for most of my projects so I don't know how the two methods
>compare.  Can anyone comment?