Don't knock it until you've tried it. Satin lacquer (Deft) is a wonderful
finish. I have used probably 100 cans of the stuff on turnings alone.
It's durable, non-yellowing, easy to apply, quick drying, and easy to
repair if that is ever needed. It doesn't hide the grain that I can tell,
it's just not as shiny as a gloss finish. A gloss finish dulled by
abrading it with steel wool, sandpaper, or whatever, is a delicate finish
that can become blotchy when the micro-abrasions become clogged with skin
oil from handling, and wax will just make the piece more shiny all over.
You can control the degree of gloss/satin effect by applying clear
undercoats of gloss lacquer or shellac if you wish, and you can apply wax
to the final finish without altering the satin appearance. I rarely see
the need for waxing a lacquer finish on the kind of turnings I do, but
other kinds of things - guitars, etc. - often get waxed. A finish should
be appropriate to the style of the turning, and not everything should be
glossy. Natural, rustic, or organic styled turnings seem to me to be more
appropriately finished somewhere in the range of a dull to a satin sheen,
and satin lacquer is a great option to have in your repertoire of
finishing techniques. I like it a lot.
-mike paulson, fort collins, co
>I've read quite a few times not to use satin or flat finishes because
>the flatting agents can block the look of the grain. It's recommended
>to use gloss and then steel wool it to the desired appearance. I use
>gloss for most of my projects so I don't know how the two methods
>compare. Can anyone comment?