HUT Crystal Coat

HUT Crystal Coat

Post by Chery » Sat, 31 Mar 2001 03:01:36



I just ordered the above product from Woodcraft. (The Woodcraft catalog
marks it as "new".)  I turn some very colorful woods, including dimondwood,
and want a finish that won't effect the color of the wood. Does anyone have
any experience with this product?
 
 
 

HUT Crystal Coat

Post by www.penguy.co » Sat, 31 Mar 2001 06:01:53


I didn't like it at all.  I found it to color the wood, hard to get a good
finish, and it didn't last long at all.  I still have a bottle if you like
it let me know I'll send it to you for the cost of shipping.

--
Thanks,
Dave

"The Penguy"
www.penguy.com

Deer Antler And *** Wood Pens Starting at $16.00

Quote:
> I just ordered the above product from Woodcraft. (The Woodcraft catalog
> marks it as "new".)  I turn some very colorful woods, including
dimondwood,
> and want a finish that won't effect the color of the wood. Does anyone
have
> any experience with this product?


 
 
 

HUT Crystal Coat

Post by twhditt » Sat, 31 Mar 2001 23:45:24


Cheryl,

I have had good luck with the crystal coat stuff and have made it last a good
while. It is very much like the 1/3 denatured ***, 1/3 boiled linseed oil
and 1/3 shellac mixture, but it has carbona wax mixed in. I do a lot of small
turnings along with pens and the finish has worked well with those turnings.
However, on larger turnings, I really like good old danish oil (natural) for
the most natural of looks.

Tom / Van Buren, AR

 
 
 

HUT Crystal Coat

Post by Chery » Mon, 02 Apr 2001 05:23:35


I want to thank all of your for your responses. Since I will be using this
product on miniatures (vases, bowls, boxes, etc., 1" tall or less) that
probably won't be handled much, it does sound like just what I've been
looking for, as long as it does NOT discolor my items!

Thanks, all of you, for your input.

Cheryl


Quote:
> I didn't like it at all.  I found it to color the wood, hard to get a good
> finish, and it didn't last long at all.  I still have a bottle if you like
> it let me know I'll send it to you for the cost of shipping.

> --
> Thanks,
> Dave

> "The Penguy"
> www.penguy.com

> Deer Antler And *** Wood Pens Starting at $16.00


> > I just ordered the above product from Woodcraft. (The Woodcraft catalog
> > marks it as "new".)  I turn some very colorful woods, including
> dimondwood,
> > and want a finish that won't effect the color of the wood. Does anyone
> have
> > any experience with this product?

 
 
 

HUT Crystal Coat

Post by Grusser » Mon, 02 Apr 2001 11:19:23


The HUT "Crystal Coat" is one of several similar shellac based products that
will give a quick high-gloss finish on small spindle turnings, weed pots,
etc.that will accent the wood grain and be fairly durable. However, they are
often not as easy to apply as advertised.

Don't expect to get perfect results the first time, even if it is advertised as
easily done. Getting good results, particularly with shellac based products,
takes some practice.

A friction-polish is not a miracle product. The finish will only be as good as
the surface you put it on. The wood surface must be as near perfect as we can
get it because the high gloss will also magnify every defect and all of the
things we thought were insignificant are suddenly obvious. Sand to at least
600, and 1500 is even better. Remove all sanding scratches and circular rings
by sanding along the grain with the finest grit you use.

Heat is required to "flow" the finish and make a smooth surface. High lathe
speed isn't necessary as long as there is enough pressure and friction to
generate the heat. The applicator should be just below the temperature where it
is too hot to hold. In other words, when your fingers start to burn, you are
there.

Do not flood the surface with the finishing solution. Use just enough to cover
the surface for the first coat. Then add small quantities as each previous coat
dries, and continue to run it with the applicator until it is dry and gets hot
before adding more finish. This is a case where minimal is the right amount.

If ridges in the finished surface are a problem, adding more finish is not the
solution. You may already have too much. Add denatured *** to the
applicator. The thinner will soften the surface, and allow the shellac to flow
with the friction heat.

We must use an applicator that will not impart a surface texture to the finish
from the weave of the cloth, or hardened finish on its surface. I have found
the best applicator to be a piece of new velour towel. It doesn't have to be
white, but it has to be new. Washing leaves a detergent residue that can affect
the finish, and drying hardens the ends of the cotton fibers.  The soft velour
will form a smooth matte in the friction area that is free of any texture.

I hope this helps.

Russ Fairfield
Silverdale, WA

 
 
 

HUT Crystal Coat

Post by Ray Sandusk » Mon, 02 Apr 2001 14:39:38


Cheryl

I use HUT Crystal Coat on for all of my shellac/friction polish finishes -
this stuff works great and does not change the color of the wood.

Your best bet is to use an old athletic sock, turn it inside out with the
rough fibrous cotton as your buffing material.  Make sure you build friction
between the old sock (with a quarter sized dollop of HUT) and the wood.
this will quickly build up a beautiful gloss finish.

The product is made with Shellac and Carnuba wax, so the heat from the
friction is what makes the waxes and shellac melt to bond to the surface.  I
often use Tung Oil before I apply the Crystal Coat - this adds a richness to
the look of the wood - that's your call though.

Enjoy

Ray Sandusky


Quote:
> I just ordered the above product from Woodcraft. (The Woodcraft catalog
> marks it as "new".)  I turn some very colorful woods, including
dimondwood,
> and want a finish that won't effect the color of the wood. Does anyone
have
> any experience with this product?