Deer Antler And *** Wood Pens Starting at $16.00
I have had good luck with the crystal coat stuff and have made it last a good
while. It is very much like the 1/3 denatured ***, 1/3 boiled linseed oil
and 1/3 shellac mixture, but it has carbona wax mixed in. I do a lot of small
turnings along with pens and the finish has worked well with those turnings.
However, on larger turnings, I really like good old danish oil (natural) for
the most natural of looks.
Tom / Van Buren, AR
Thanks, all of you, for your input.
> "The Penguy"
> Deer Antler And *** Wood Pens Starting at $16.00
> > I just ordered the above product from Woodcraft. (The Woodcraft catalog
> > marks it as "new".) I turn some very colorful woods, including
> > and want a finish that won't effect the color of the wood. Does anyone
> > any experience with this product?
Don't expect to get perfect results the first time, even if it is advertised as
easily done. Getting good results, particularly with shellac based products,
takes some practice.
A friction-polish is not a miracle product. The finish will only be as good as
the surface you put it on. The wood surface must be as near perfect as we can
get it because the high gloss will also magnify every defect and all of the
things we thought were insignificant are suddenly obvious. Sand to at least
600, and 1500 is even better. Remove all sanding scratches and circular rings
by sanding along the grain with the finest grit you use.
Heat is required to "flow" the finish and make a smooth surface. High lathe
speed isn't necessary as long as there is enough pressure and friction to
generate the heat. The applicator should be just below the temperature where it
is too hot to hold. In other words, when your fingers start to burn, you are
Do not flood the surface with the finishing solution. Use just enough to cover
the surface for the first coat. Then add small quantities as each previous coat
dries, and continue to run it with the applicator until it is dry and gets hot
before adding more finish. This is a case where minimal is the right amount.
If ridges in the finished surface are a problem, adding more finish is not the
solution. You may already have too much. Add denatured *** to the
applicator. The thinner will soften the surface, and allow the shellac to flow
with the friction heat.
We must use an applicator that will not impart a surface texture to the finish
from the weave of the cloth, or hardened finish on its surface. I have found
the best applicator to be a piece of new velour towel. It doesn't have to be
white, but it has to be new. Washing leaves a detergent residue that can affect
the finish, and drying hardens the ends of the cotton fibers. The soft velour
will form a smooth matte in the friction area that is free of any texture.
I hope this helps.
I use HUT Crystal Coat on for all of my shellac/friction polish finishes -
this stuff works great and does not change the color of the wood.
Your best bet is to use an old athletic sock, turn it inside out with the
rough fibrous cotton as your buffing material. Make sure you build friction
between the old sock (with a quarter sized dollop of HUT) and the wood.
this will quickly build up a beautiful gloss finish.
The product is made with Shellac and Carnuba wax, so the heat from the
friction is what makes the waxes and shellac melt to bond to the surface. I
often use Tung Oil before I apply the Crystal Coat - this adds a richness to
the look of the wood - that's your call though.