This is a VERY clean set, not used much by an old lady, fly looks
perfect externally and set works great after previous guy just did an
alignment on it.
Are there other adjustments that help the fly out, like making sure the
width is absolutely the least needed to fill the screen? How about the
HV adjustment in back, what is the desired setting? Also the cage does
not seem to have any venting holes or slots like my CTC-5. Would
adding a tiny pc fan to suck air thru it help? thanks
It's not an 'adjustment' per se, but there's a tweak you can do. If you
can get hold of three disc ceramic 6KV caps rated at 47pf, 100pf, and
150pf, try this: add the 47 across the damper, from cathode to plate.
This will drop the 'JE6 plate current slightly, maybe 5 ma or so, while
increasing width slightly. Then try the same with the 100 and the 150.
But there's a trade-off as in the old saying "there is no free lunch".
This tweak, combined with dropping the 'JE6 screen voltage, also drops
the HV. So you can only go so far with it. But I have used it to reduce
current in the 'JE6 by as much as 20 ma, while maintaining width and HV
regulation. This was in cases where the current was running excessively
high, i.e., 220 ma and above.
Also, a heads-up: the two ground lugs on the right-hand end of the
chroma board tend to go open, which kills the heater voltage on the two
6GU7s. This starts a failure cascade that can actually kill the 3A3 and
flyback if not caught in time. The 6GU7s' plates go 'waaay positive,
driving the CRT G1s positive, which sends the beam current out the roof,
which can fry the 3A3 and flyback in short order. So be sure and
re-solder those two lugs (!)
Also the AC power switch was prone to arcing internally and catching
fire. So NEVER let the set run unattended.
Good luck with it. Sounds like a rare cream puff indeed.
Header address is a spam trap. E-mail: oldcoot88atwebtv.net Change 'at'
> >Guess I could just solder the switch
> >closed and use a cord switch, or find a
> >replacement control.
> The switch that was prone to arcing had a molded black bakelite shell
> with the two lugs coming out the back. Your set may or may not use
> type. The type with the metal body did not have problems.