TRX: is this normal?

TRX: is this normal?

Post by RM 25 » Wed, 01 Aug 2001 04:13:23



hey all i have a new thing with my TRX, i have it tuned pretty much perfect
now and i am much less depressed about it than i was, i got it tuned
correctly about a week ago and i was hoping this symptom would go away

When i start the engine it acts VERY rich i mean it wants to stall and if i
hold the throttle WFO the thing smokes like hell and jolts forward a little
every few seconds as the revs get high enough for it to try to kick into
gear. Then it just goes back down the revs - as you can see its acting VERY
rich then after i blip the  throttle and rev it for about 2 - 3 mins the
thing can now move off. It's still slow then after the load of the Maxx has
got the TRX really hot it runs at its best. It will break away from the
ground e.c.t.

i ask about the above because my Torq .16 starts and you punch the throttle
and the thing wheelies off, you know its like 100% performance from the get
go. I don't know if nitro engines need warmed up none of my engines seem to
care except the TRX so i am just wondering it its just me.

funny thing number 2 :

If i run it for about an hour it goes "past" peak performance like its over
heating and losing compression or something the power is much weaker on the
bottom end but the top remains the same this means when the engine goes from
bottom end needle settings to top there is a hit the power is not longer
smooth which i like BUT the bottom end is crud by this time.

is anyone else getting these symptons, the piston/sleeve fit is still tight
when the engine is cold and the compression is good.

I ask this because it seems to me that if an engine would over heat, the way
i drive the Maxx it would either happen in the first 20 - 30 mins or never.
When my Torq was new it used to stall occasionally when it was driven hard
for a long time, but it was just because the idle lowered once the engine
was REALLY hot - but all my engines do that including the Maxx so i am not
worried about stalling i am just wondering does this mean something is
wrong?

--

  RM 250
  www.rm250rulz.fsnet.co.uk

 
 
 

TRX: is this normal?

Post by Paul Littleto » Wed, 01 Aug 2001 12:55:18


You mean a Torq.16 will make the T-MAXX wheelie? Stock?
Quote:

> hey all i have a new thing with my TRX, i have it tuned pretty much perfect
> now and i am much less depressed about it than i was, i got it tuned
> correctly about a week ago and i was hoping this symptom would go away

> When i start the engine it acts VERY rich i mean it wants to stall and if i
> hold the throttle WFO the thing smokes like hell and jolts forward a little
> every few seconds as the revs get high enough for it to try to kick into
> gear. Then it just goes back down the revs - as you can see its acting VERY
> rich then after i blip the  throttle and rev it for about 2 - 3 mins the
> thing can now move off. It's still slow then after the load of the Maxx has
> got the TRX really hot it runs at its best. It will break away from the
> ground e.c.t.

> i ask about the above because my Torq .16 starts and you punch the throttle
> and the thing wheelies off, you know its like 100% performance from the get
> go. I don't know if nitro engines need warmed up none of my engines seem to
> care except the TRX so i am just wondering it its just me.

> funny thing number 2 :

> If i run it for about an hour it goes "past" peak performance like its over
> heating and losing compression or something the power is much weaker on the
> bottom end but the top remains the same this means when the engine goes from
> bottom end needle settings to top there is a hit the power is not longer
> smooth which i like BUT the bottom end is crud by this time.

> is anyone else getting these symptons, the piston/sleeve fit is still tight
> when the engine is cold and the compression is good.

> I ask this because it seems to me that if an engine would over heat, the way
> i drive the Maxx it would either happen in the first 20 - 30 mins or never.
> When my Torq was new it used to stall occasionally when it was driven hard
> for a long time, but it was just because the idle lowered once the engine
> was REALLY hot - but all my engines do that including the Maxx so i am not
> worried about stalling i am just wondering does this mean something is
> wrong?

> --

>   RM 250
>   www.rm250rulz.fsnet.co.uk


 
 
 

TRX: is this normal?

Post by RM 25 » Thu, 02 Aug 2001 05:58:41


Quote:

> You mean a Torq.16 will make the T-MAXX wheelie? Stock?

yes, the torq never has had a tuned pipe on it before and the maxx's made
the torq even more powerful!, it didn't wheelie form a stand still but once
the thihng was moving the torq coul lift the front wheels easy!, in the dirt
it wheelspins forever now, the TRX isn't all bad its just that torq. 16 is
soo damn good!
 
 
 

TRX: is this normal?

Post by PistolGri » Thu, 02 Aug 2001 08:02:24



Quote:
> When i start the engine it acts VERY rich i mean it wants to stall and if
i
> hold the throttle WFO the thing smokes like hell and jolts forward a
little
> every few seconds as the revs get high enough for it to try to kick into
> gear. Then it just goes back down the revs - as you can see its acting
VERY
> rich then after i blip the  throttle and rev it for about 2 - 3 mins the
> thing can now move off. It's still slow then after the load of the Maxx
has
> got the TRX really hot it runs at its best. It will break away from the
> ground e.c.t.

Well, it is probably a combination of tuning and the cold-natured'ness of
the TRX engine.  It is fairly normal for larger engines .15 and greater to
take 2 - 3 minutes before they start operating with good performance.

Quote:
> funny thing number 2 :

> If i run it for about an hour it goes "past" peak performance like its
over
> heating and losing compression or something the power is much weaker on
the
> bottom end but the top remains the same this means when the engine goes
from
> bottom end needle settings to top there is a hit the power is not longer
> smooth which i like BUT the bottom end is crud by this time.

This really sounds like a tuning problem.  I would bet your needles are out
of whack a little.  Might be rich on top and lean on bottom, or vice versa.
When you have your needles miss-balanced (ie. rich top, lean bottom), your
temperatures will seem normal for a while but the engine will just keep
getting hotter and hotter, it might take a while before it starts to
overheat.  A *properly* tuned engine should be able to run almost
indefinitely without overheating.

I would reset the needles to near break-in settings, lean the top, and then
lean the bottom.  Try working with it for a while, you might have something
out of whack with your mixture.

Quote:
> is anyone else getting these symptons, the piston/sleeve fit is still
tight
> when the engine is cold and the compression is good.

I've had these symptoms before when my needles were out of relation to each
other.  Remember, your high-speed and low-speed needles *are* related.  What
you do to one does affect the other.  How does the compression feel with the
engine hot?  This is what really matters, also how much bleed-off does the
engine have, cold and hot?

PG