Duratrax Maximum MT Pro

Duratrax Maximum MT Pro

Post by Geoffrey Philbric » Sat, 08 Sep 2001 10:27:58



Does anyone own a Duratrax Maximum MT Pro? I have one and I am
very disappointed. I'd like to know whether I got a lemon, or
this is fundamentally a bad truck. Here are some of the problems
I have experienced in the first few weeks of ownership.

Design flaws

  * The rear axles fall out of the differential joints during
    hard cornering or mild jumps. It seems that the inside
    brace that the rear turnbuckle rods attach to is too
    flexible.

  * The wheels are attached to the axles with aluminum
    tapered hex nuts. These hex nuts are supposed to
    keep the wheel from spinning independently of the
    tire. The theory is that you tighten the
    tiny nut that bolts the wheel to axle and the tapered
    hex nut will grip the axle well enough to prevent
    the wheel from spinning. I have gone through several
    of the nuts. Once the wheel starts spinning, the tapered
    hole becomes too large and the hex nut is destroyed.
    If you have this truck, tighten the heck out of the
    nut on the end of the axle.

  * All of the suspension joints fit loosely. This results
    in a lot of slop in the steering.

  * The 48T plastic gear driven by the two-speed clutch stripped.
    I'm not sure if this is a design flaw, but steel gears
    may be more appropriate.

Assembly/Manufacturing flaws

  * The***holding the outer clutch gear on was not loctited
    and fell off.

  * The gas tank had a crack and leaked fuel.

  * One differential joint broke in half.

  * The steering servo arm fell off.

Not all is bad. The engine is strong and starts easily. This truck
is fast once it gets going.

Geoff

 
 
 

Duratrax Maximum MT Pro

Post by NYinI » Sat, 08 Sep 2001 11:04:25


well i have the Maximum MT (the stripped down version). the rear dogbones
seem to be too short because they popped out everytime i extended the ride
height or did a jump. my diff gears stripped on my second outing. i have a
serious case of vapor lock but despite all of this the  truck is durable. i
have beat this truck up and it is still intact. i dont have the speed
***, i have the steel gear (no signs of wear). i'm pretty satisfied, i
guess you get what you pay for, at least replacement and upgrades are not
hard to find.


Quote:
> Does anyone own a Duratrax Maximum MT Pro? I have one and I am
> very disappointed. I'd like to know whether I got a lemon, or
> this is fundamentally a bad truck. Here are some of the problems
> I have experienced in the first few weeks of ownership.

> Design flaws

>   * The rear axles fall out of the differential joints during
>     hard cornering or mild jumps. It seems that the inside
>     brace that the rear turnbuckle rods attach to is too
>     flexible.

>   * The wheels are attached to the axles with aluminum
>     tapered hex nuts. These hex nuts are supposed to
>     keep the wheel from spinning independently of the
>     tire. The theory is that you tighten the
>     tiny nut that bolts the wheel to axle and the tapered
>     hex nut will grip the axle well enough to prevent
>     the wheel from spinning. I have gone through several
>     of the nuts. Once the wheel starts spinning, the tapered
>     hole becomes too large and the hex nut is destroyed.
>     If you have this truck, tighten the heck out of the
>     nut on the end of the axle.

>   * All of the suspension joints fit loosely. This results
>     in a lot of slop in the steering.

>   * The 48T plastic gear driven by the two-speed clutch stripped.
>     I'm not sure if this is a design flaw, but steel gears
>     may be more appropriate.

> Assembly/Manufacturing flaws

>   * The***holding the outer clutch gear on was not loctited
>     and fell off.

>   * The gas tank had a crack and leaked fuel.

>   * One differential joint broke in half.

>   * The steering servo arm fell off.

> Not all is bad. The engine is strong and starts easily. This truck
> is fast once it gets going.

> Geoff


 
 
 

Duratrax Maximum MT Pro

Post by RM 25 » Sun, 09 Sep 2001 04:19:00


Quote:

> well i have the Maximum MT (the stripped down version). the rear dogbones
> seem to be too short because they popped out everytime i extended the ride
> height or did a jump. my diff gears stripped on my second outing. i have a
> serious case of vapor lock but despite all of this the  truck is durable.
i
> have beat this truck up and it is still intact. i dont have the speed
> ***, i have the steel gear (no signs of wear). i'm pretty satisfied, i
> guess you get what you pay for, at least replacement and upgrades are not
> hard to find.

i have the MT too, i also stripped my diff gears - but it took 2 weeks for
them to go.

i upgraded the whole drive train as best i could

- steel gears
- bearings (at wheels)
- pack the diff full O heavy grease (the less movement of theose gears in
the diff the less wear)
- universal drive shafts
- sanded the clutch a little - for more bite
- locked the slipper - the reason i upgraded the full *** was SO i could
lock the slipper.

i have upgraded other stuff but its on my web page in the "specs" section

--

RM 250
MX Bikes - its the only way to fly!
www.rm250rulz.fsnet.co.uk

 
 
 

Duratrax Maximum MT Pro

Post by SBlackfoo » Mon, 10 Sep 2001 08:55:58


Quote:
>   * The wheels are attached to the axles with aluminum
>     tapered hex nuts. These hex nuts are supposed to
>     keep the wheel from spinning independently of the
>     tire. The theory is that you tighten the
>     tiny nut that bolts the wheel to axle and the tapered
>     hex nut will grip the axle well enough to prevent
>     the wheel from spinning. I have gone through several
>     of the nuts. Once the wheel starts spinning, the tapered
>     hole becomes too large and the hex nut is destroyed.
>     If you have this truck, tighten the heck out of the
>     nut on the end of the axle.

Some Kyosho cars (Two of the four tham I am familiar with anyway) also have
their hex adaptors on tapers. They can be a pain to get to stay put at frst,
but once they're locked down they're damned near impossible to seperate
without a vise. It's not the best system, but my Rampage and my Sideways
haven't had one come loose in years. If you're desperate you can put a smal
drop of loctite on the taper, although it may never come apart. ;o) . Just
stay the hell away from the bearings or the bushing/axle surface.