Found Collection

    Does anyone have any comments on this car.. I plan for this to be my
first nitro car, adn dont want to spend tons of money on a good RC10....
yet... lol.  Do you think this would be good for a beginnner to nitro. I
have had electric cars for many years, but never a nitro. Thanks for any
help.

Chris

P.S. -- I plan to go all out on this car with ball bearings and a tuned
pipe.

Well I am new to nitro just this week. I looked at several cars and
came to one conclusion...
I wanted to go all out as well so I wanted something to build off of
that was already fast... I noticed that for an out the door price the
Traxxas Nitro Sport is comparable and has a larger motor!
The BX uses a .12 where the Sport runs a .15 out of the box and for
$80 you can get the pro head and carb to make it a PRO .15 which is
what the 4-Tech runs!
BUT if your strictly looking for a Buggy STAY AWAY from the Traxxas
buggy! I've seen two of them in my LHS where the chassis was severely
bent and twisted. Must be a BAD weak point.

Now just to try and shoe horn a 4-tech two speed trans onto this
thing.... Hmmmmmmmmmmm

My web page, Devoted to RC's and also the "Radio" part of RC's (antenna's, AMvsFM ect) is up at http://www.***ix.com/people/n3wtf
 Thanks for taking a look! And feel free to email me questions if your answer is not there.

I got one for Christmas. Here are my comments, it is my first Nitro car so I
don't have anything to compare it to: First of all make sure your local hobby
shop has parts in stock. It has been a pain when something breaks and I have to
order parts from some mail order company. All of our shops can get parts but
you have to order them. Since having it we replace the blue *** muffler
exhaust pipe(it melted) and the spur gear(stripped because the engine came
loose). Also, the bolts that hold the muffler stipped out and my dad had to get
a longer bolt and nut and with some lock-tight reconnected everything. Currenty
we are having problems keeping the engine running. It seems that when it hits a
lot of bumps, air bubbles get into the fuel line and the engine dies. It is
Really, REALLY frustrating. I'd personally spend a little extra and get a car
with an OS engine.

Good Luck

Hey Guys
       I have a Max ST and it is a cool truck you just need a few changes to
make it a good one. The BX is basically the same vehicle with different
tires and wheels. To fix the bubbles in the tank problem.
Get a 2oz dubro fuel tank and it will fit right beside the tank on the car
and use it like a header tank. Use the klunk in the tank like an airplane
tank. Take all of the hoses off and plumb it like this. From the dubro klunk
side hook it up to the carb on the engine. From the fill side on the dubro
hook it up to the bottom of the main duratrax tank. From the top of the
duratrax tank go to the pressue fitting on the muffler (or tuned pipe). This
will eliminate any bubbles and give you 20 min run times.
Strap the dubro to the main tank with a tie strap. Now the truck will run
with no problems. Next buy a tuned pipe for the car it will help a ton it
will  give more low end and top end both. This makes the truck plenty fast.
Now we have dependability and speed. So you will probably strip the middle
gear in the transmission. If you use the slipper clutch like you should you
will not have any problem. If You are like Me you will probably tighten the
slipper clutch up so the car will get off of the line quickly. I stripped 2
gears and decided that was not going to work.
What you need to do if you keep stripping gears is replace the center
transmission gear with a Traxxas #4196 in place of the Duratrax dtxc7200 in
the ***. This will fix the problem of stripping the gears.
That traxxas gear is a lot tougher than the Duratrax. Since all of the above
on My truck I have added a 18 tooth clutch bell and speeded mine up quite a
bit. This seems to be one of the most dependable nitro trucks that I have. I
really bash this truck around.  Have any questions give Me a shout....
Pyro

I have lots of parts for the Max ST and BX up for auction on Ebay, starting
bids are very cheap, and many of the parts are brand new!

http://cgi6.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewListedItems&userid=davi...

I bought a BX back in December and have had alot of fun bashing with it.

I stripped the idler gear in the *** (still awaiting it's arrival), I
have heard that this is a common problem so if you purchase the BX or ST I
would suggest ordering an extra idler.

First thing to do is to add loc-tite to the engine mounts as they WILL come
loose.    Second, throw out the muffler and pruchase a tuned pipe - the
preformance difference is definately comparable.

I have run about a gallon and a half through the .12 and have not had a
single problem with the engine.  It is not as fast as OS's but for a newbie
I believe it is the way to learn.

I am glad that I purchased the BX as my first car as it is easy to tear down
and learn how things work.  Much easier to bash up a less expensive car and
fix it than spend more and scrounge up the $$ to fix it.

I am buying an HPI Nitro MT as my second rc (after much research and humming
& hawing) and using my knowledge gained from my BX experience to run and
maintain a ore complex car.

My .02 cents.

Scheemely

HI
get back to me on the group, I'm still having trouble keeping my T Tr
running, pottering around it runs great, but start to wind it up, and it
just dies out when the throttle comes off again, and it doesn't matter how I
set the mixture, rich, lean, or in the middle. your right it is frustrating,
this engine has never idled, and I don't expect it ever will, I'm just
waiting for it to blow, then I can get a decent motor, that may keep
running, for more than 1/3 tank of nitro.
and I have tried everything. and I mean EVERYTHING.
I fully agree, in hindsight, I would have spent more, and got a better
engine in a car.
yours isn't a thunder tiger single needle job by any chance????

I also own a DuraStool (Heh) M-ST.. It is not so bad after you***around
with it a few times. If you are getting air bubbles in yer fuel line (from the tank

to the carb). There are a few reasons, NOT including holes in the fuel line. Since
holes in the fuel line are very unlikely. If you run your fuel line around the the
outer side of the engine (the side with the recoil starter), you will most likely
heat up the fuel line badly from the head/sink, then some more at the barrel
or tuned pipe if you put one on. Heating up the fuel line will cause the line to
expand and get softer, and cause backflow (air bubbles). Cheapest upgrade
for the fuel area of this truck is to get a cheap, inline fuel filter (only a
couple
of bucks). Run a short line from the bottom of the tank to the filter and zip-strap

the filter to the support rod that runs from the trans to the pan infront of the
servo mount. Then run a line from the filter to the carb. Make sure you adjust
the direction of the *** on the fuel intake of the carb to point the other way.
This keeps line away from heat, and the fly wheel as well. And the filter will
catch any ***you get in the tank during some dirty runs.

Some other common problems with the ST is the Idle Set***or (ISS).
It seems to be flaky on almost ALL ST's.. If you set it, and fire up the
truck and let it idle, it idles fine, almost indefinately. Then you go burn the
thing around a track for a few minutes and stop to fill up the tank and it
just dies (like the idle speed has changed, you let off the gas and it dies).
The ISS basically screws itself back in from throttling on and off/braking.
Get the***where you want it and lock-tight it, or use something to
prevent it from screwing itself back in. (Will need to re-adjust when/if
you change fuel types. I run 15% 100% SYN).

Some other tips for this truck from experience are as follows ->

Instead of changing the shock-oil, replace the coils instead with
stiffer ones. No need to change the shock-oil on these trucks. Stiff
coils work great. Leave the front ones alone, they are good enough
and can be adjusted within reasonable limits.

Install a tuned-pipe (MIP Stinger is perfect for these trucks) but the
bolts included with the pipe will not be long enough, so you can torq
in your original ST barrel bolts with some lock tight and it will stay
forever, or drill the holes on the pipe bigger and use long bolts with
nuts (and ofcourse some lock-tight).

Install bearings for the front and rear wheels, this is a definate must,
those crap-ass bushings will wear out very fast and make yer wheels
flop all over the place and you will lose alot of control.

Replace the front and rear suspension arms with metal (titanium) ones,
the front ones seem to break too damn easy.

Also, if you flip the truck over lots and bend / kink / then break  your
antenna often. Here is what you do. Cut the antenna tube (not the wire)
shorter, to about 9 inches. Run the wire up through it and down the
side. Then heat a few layers of shrink tube over it all with a blow dryer,
nice and tight. I have folded the antenna in half many times and its
still straight and not broken, after over WAY too many rolls..

If you have any questions about your Maximum ST, feel free to email
me.. Its not my truck of choice, but have been working with it for
over a month (hard) and trying to improve it to be more of what it
could be.