help with finishing

help with finishing

Post by MN MAG » Thu, 16 Dec 1999 04:00:00



I Am rather new to working with PC. I like creating things but don;t find
myself to be awfully artistic so most of what I make is rather basic. Awhile
back I started making necklace pendants out of sculpy and fimo with imprinted
designs on them.

I use to push Black clay into the relifs to darken them but what a pain this
was so I turned to using Black Paint. Currently using Delta Ceramcoat but the
paint easily scratches off. Do I need to seal or pretreat the piece? And or do
I need to varnish it? I tried Sculpy's clear laquer but found that it pealed
off because of the sharp edge on the back.

What am I not doing right?

Thank you for All your help. I am e***d to find this newsgroup.
The whole world's a stage and I forgot my lines!

 
 
 

help with finishing

Post by Shelley McLoughli » Sat, 18 Dec 1999 04:00:00


Any additions on PC such as paint or mica powder etc. need to be sealed or
they will rub off. I used to use fimo laquer and found exactly the same,
that it peeled off easily. I now use Future (or Johnson's Klear in the UK)
as a varnish. It's a floor polish. Many people use Varathane, but being UK
based, I can't get that over here.

Other varnishes are possible, but you would have to experiement first. Many
have a tendency to make the clay go sticky after several months, even though
they seem fine at first, and some just never dry properly.

Hope this helps.
Shelley
Remove spamfree to e-mail me.
http://www.FoundCollection.com/~mcloughlin/shellpag.htm

Quote:

>I Am rather new to working with PC. I like creating things but don;t find
>myself to be awfully artistic so most of what I make is rather basic.
Awhile
>back I started making necklace pendants out of sculpy and fimo with
imprinted
>designs on them.

>I use to push Black clay into the relifs to darken them but what a pain
this
>was so I turned to using Black Paint. Currently using Delta Ceramcoat but
the
>paint easily scratches off. Do I need to seal or pretreat the piece? And or
do
>I need to varnish it? I tried Sculpy's clear laquer but found that it
pealed
>off because of the sharp edge on the back.

>What am I not doing right?

>Thank you for All your help. I am e***d to find this newsgroup.
>The whole world's a stage and I forgot my lines!


 
 
 

help with finishing

Post by The Polymer Clay Pi » Mon, 20 Dec 1999 04:00:00




Quote:
>I used to use fimo laquer and found exactly the same,
>that it peeled off easily.

Shelley,

Did you find this happened with the water based Fimo varnish? I found
that the water based peeled shabbily - even lifted off when the beads
were in a plastic bag. Liquitex Acrylic medium did the same. :*(
But Klear has never done that, and neither have either of the two
spirit-based Fimo varnishes (matt and gloss) - and I have samples using
them going back to the early 80's. Any one else had similar experiences?

Sue (also UK based so don't say how great Diamond Varathane is, or I
shall cry! ;*)
--
Sue Heaser

http://www.heaser.demon.co.uk

 
 
 

help with finishing

Post by Shelley McLoughli » Tue, 21 Dec 1999 04:00:00


Sue

I've not had any luck with the spirit based fimo varnishes either. I can't
seem to get them to mix properly (could be old?) and after time they always
seem to rub or flake off.

At the moment I tend to use Future (got my bottle in Canada!). I also did an
experiment with Blackfriar varnish (easily available in the UK) and it seems
to be holding up well. It's a water based quick drying interior varnish with
polyurethane. The can I've got is clear satin, but I think they also do matt
and gloss. Varnished a few pieces in May of this year and no adverse
reactions at all so far, no flaking, discolouration and NO stickyness! I
haven't tried it over acrylic paint or powders yet, I've found with some
finishes the varnish tends to move and smudge the powder or paint. I'll let
you know what happens with the Blackfriar's.

Shelley
Remove spamfree to e-mail me.
http://homepages.tesco.net/~mcloughlin/shellpag.htm

 
 
 

help with finishing

Post by Shelley McLoughli » Wed, 22 Dec 1999 04:00:00


Sue

The beauty about the Blackfriars stuff is that it all washes out with water.
It's a milky/cloudy sort of varnish in the tin, but dries clear. I've tried
Cuprinol which is also water based and that doesn't work at all and never
dries properly, but this one does seem promising. I'll keep you informed
with my progress.

Shelley
Remove spamfree to e-mail me.
http://homepages.tesco.net/~mcloughlin/shellpag.htm


Quote:
>Do keep us posted about the Blackfriars stuff. What is the solvent for
that? Is it
>meths?

>Sue

>--
>The Polymer Clay Pit

>http://www.heaser.demon.co.uk/claypit.htm

 
 
 

help with finishing

Post by MN MAG » Thu, 23 Dec 1999 04:00:00


Thank you for all your help. When you use future and other varnishes do you dip
the piece or use a brush? Should I preseal the pendants at all before painting
them? Could you let me know? Thanks.

Shawn
The whole world's a stage and I forgot my lines!

 
 
 

help with finishing

Post by Shelley McLoughli » Fri, 24 Dec 1999 04:00:00


Quote:
>When you use future and other varnishes do you dip
>the piece or use a brush? <

I always use a brush to coat with future or varnish, but I believe others
sometimes dip their pieces. I have heard of people dipping warm - fresh from
the oven - pieces, straight into future, but haven't tried it myself.

Quote:
>Should I preseal the pendants at all before painting
>them?<

I don't and haven't had any problems. I believe there can sometimes be
problems with oil on the pieces (from handling) that may cause paints not to
adhere properly, and I believe you can use *** to clean the pieces
before painting to cure this problem. But again I've never tried this and
haven't had any trouble. Someone else may have more advice on this one.

Shelley
And a very merry christmas to one and all

Remove spamfree to e-mail me.
http://www.FoundCollection.com/~mcloughlin/shellpag.htm