I covered those plastic Easter eggs they sell in the spring (watch your after
Easter 70-90% off sales at Michaels!!) successfully for the most part. The
ones I got were softer plastic though, maybe even PVC, which might not react
the same. (I poked air holes in the ends with a darning needle to allow air to
escape -- the two I forgot to do this with swelled up and cracked the clay, so
I made them into "hatching" eggs, one with doll eyes in an opal gilitter
covered mass (mystery monster?!) and the other with a dragon-like tail coming
out -- very popular with kids!)
Bic pens and hair combs (the wide base part) have been successfully covered
with clay, so I guess the main thing will be what specific plastic compounds
are used in those particular items. Even if they melt, the replacement costs
of a desk stapler aren't all THAT bad! And the egg is free.
Remember to report back!
I haven't tried it and don't know, but a suggestion in case you
try it and it doesn't work (and there might be other reasons
why it might not, even if the plastic will take the heat -- I'd
be concerned about even post-baking interaction between the
plastic and the polyclay breaking down the plastic...), you
might consider using actual eggs. While chicken eggs are smallish,
there should also be sources for duck, goose, and turkey (heck,
even Ostrich) eggs, and if both the egg and the polyclay are
pierced in the same spot to let air out, it ought to work.
(I've been meaning to try making some cane-covered easter eggs,
but haven't restocked on round tooits yet...)
On the other hand, the examined life isn't very lucrative.
Pre-blown eggshells are supposed to be commercially available somewhere,
since they are commonly decorated in all sorts of ways.
Anyway, have fun (there's so much to do with polyclay!
Susan from Raleigh, NC
I read an article in Ornament Magazine (maybe the same woman yer talking
about) that used FIMO to reproduce turquoise, jade, c***and even ivory
with all the striations etc...
When this woman made jade, she used the same black speck-like inclusions
to great effect. Here's how.
She took some black FIMO, and crumbled it. You know how it crumbles when
it first comes out of the package ... this might even be a good way to
use that old-stuff everyone complains about. Then, she used the crumbled
black only on the surface of the gem, and not mixed into the mass. In
some cases, she would cover the speck with a blob of flattened art
translucent FIMO, so that it would appear deeper, and different specks
would appear as if they were in different levels.
Good luck, try it, I did ... worked great!
-T. Shawn Johnson
(using Cori's account)
*** All is comfortable here at the end of the universe,
surfing the Bretz floods and watching for buffalo. ***
It won't take long; you come too.
I took her workshop and saw her do this live and in person -- you are right,
the effect is cool!
For those with the resources, she has some very good how-to tapes out which
show her demonstrating about everything you can think of to do with clay!
only not all the way up, and then when it was baked, carefully break
and remove the glass. Or, for that matter, cut it with a glass
cutter, sand, and you'd have a nice polymer clay vase for a desk.
Depending on the use, you could make a whole desk set like that, using
hardware objects (like metal pipe caps from the hardware store.
One thing that hasn't been mentioned -- starting the clay off at
maximum temp will "set it up" fast, and timing may be everything...
perhaps plastic "molds" can be removed before they melt, and the
polyclay object put back in the oven to finish baking. (bless its
forgiving li'l heart)
Sure, glass Christmas balls are commonly covered -- I did one this year with
night-glow stars just touching each other at the tips -- in the dark you could
see thru the holes for a sort of three-d lace design. Someone I know made
some lacey looking ornaments and broke out the glass so they were
"free-standing" which had a sort of wonderful "how'd she DO that" effect.
The glass is too think and brittle to try to make vases from it, I would
think, but I don't do much glass work, so maybe I'm wrong there. You can of
course cover OTHER glass objects, though.
Polymer clay doesn't "quick set" under high heat, though -- as it cures,
rather like earth clays, it actually gets SOFTER briefly and can sag. I would
NEVER put plastic molds in the oven unless you don't care if you lose them! I
believe plastic molds are often made of polystyrene, which is heat sensitive,
will melt at a lower temp than poly clay bakes, and which emits cyanide gas if
burned. If you use talc or cornstarch as a mold release, you shouldn't need to
bake the mold in place anyhow. It's fine to do to retain detail if you have a
heat resistand mold, but if you don't, don't mess around! (Well, that's what
*I* advise, anyhow!!)
One of the WEB sites has Christmase ornaments over glass ball
ornaments, It can be done.
I saw them before Christams, and while surfing the other day I saw
them again. The instructions are included. I think its either
Arlene Thayer's site or Margaret Briggs site.
I look and post the site later,
PS. In case you don't have a browser I will list the e-mail address also.
Maybe they will send you the info. :)
The glass covered ornaments are at Arlene Thayer's site
Christmas Ornaments by Bev Laird, there is a picture and step by step
http://www.primenet.com/~athayer - Polymer Clay Central
http://www.primenet.com/~athayer/howto.html - Goes directly to the
how to page
http://www.primenet.com/~athayer/ornament.html - Goes directly to
the picture and